Front Cover And Omp Removal
08-22-2005, 01:38 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
Hey i know there were 2 good write ups on both these procedures, but ive searched and looked manually and cant seem to find either.
The OMP needs to go caus ei dont trust it and the front cover's gasket somehow seems to have slid from between the cover and the motor allowing oil out, a lot.
So can anyone point me to a good source for that information, or do i have to go download the FSM again (i was going to use the FSM but i cant find my paper edition, and my computer doesnt have the online one on it anymore)
kevin.
The OMP needs to go caus ei dont trust it and the front cover's gasket somehow seems to have slid from between the cover and the motor allowing oil out, a lot.
So can anyone point me to a good source for that information, or do i have to go download the FSM again (i was going to use the FSM but i cant find my paper edition, and my computer doesnt have the online one on it anymore)
kevin.
08-23-2005, 04:50 PM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
[quote name='horn4858' date='Aug 23 2005, 03:58 PM']dont use that damn front cover gasket, use gasket elliminator or the black gasket silicon, had a problem similar to that 
by the way is it an electric or mech. OMP
[/quote]
mechanical OMP, i was going to just use silicone but i wasnt sure if i wanted to or not. does it work?
kevin.
[snapback]751332[/snapback]
[/quote]
mechanical OMP, i was going to just use silicone but i wasnt sure if i wanted to or not. does it work?
kevin.
08-23-2005, 07:35 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
Kevin
I did the same thing, at the same time I replaced the front cover O-Ring
Silicone will work, but what I did was take a punch and dent the gasket surface all over the place, almost to make "pores" in the surface so the silicone works better. Judge Ito does this on oil-pans and the like, I tried it, it's legit!
To remove the front cover you need to take the front pulley bolt and boss off, so take a 19mm deep socket, put it on a 1/2 breaker bar, rest the bar on the d/s frame, and blip the starter. Knocks loose everytime hassle free. ONLY do this to untorque the front nut, don't remove it yet. Grab yourself a piece of wood or something and hold the clutch down, to remove pressure against the flywheel surface. Then push the front pulley assembly into the motor to make sure the clearance/play is at the back of the engine, not the front, because that's what makes the torrington bearings in the front cover fall down.
So anyways as long as you're sure the shaft is pushed all the way back now, remove the bolt and slide off the pulley boss, undo the bolts, and take the front cover off.
Some say you can do it without removing the oil pan, but the only way I did it was with the pan off.
Anyways once you are in there, it's actually pretty easy to see the torrington bearings and if they are/have fallen out of place, and it's easy to reassemble too.
Just FYI, in my personal experience the whole torrington bearings falling out of place is a wee bit blown out of proportion. The clutch push-down/play at back of engine is just a precautionary measure, because they could fall.
But I had my engine dismantled on an engine stand, and I had the shaft float back and fourth, and the bearings didn't fall out of place. It takes a bit of work to make them drop out but in some cases it doesn't take a whole lot, so better safe than sorry.
I did the same thing, at the same time I replaced the front cover O-Ring
Silicone will work, but what I did was take a punch and dent the gasket surface all over the place, almost to make "pores" in the surface so the silicone works better. Judge Ito does this on oil-pans and the like, I tried it, it's legit!
To remove the front cover you need to take the front pulley bolt and boss off, so take a 19mm deep socket, put it on a 1/2 breaker bar, rest the bar on the d/s frame, and blip the starter. Knocks loose everytime hassle free. ONLY do this to untorque the front nut, don't remove it yet. Grab yourself a piece of wood or something and hold the clutch down, to remove pressure against the flywheel surface. Then push the front pulley assembly into the motor to make sure the clearance/play is at the back of the engine, not the front, because that's what makes the torrington bearings in the front cover fall down.
So anyways as long as you're sure the shaft is pushed all the way back now, remove the bolt and slide off the pulley boss, undo the bolts, and take the front cover off.
Some say you can do it without removing the oil pan, but the only way I did it was with the pan off.
Anyways once you are in there, it's actually pretty easy to see the torrington bearings and if they are/have fallen out of place, and it's easy to reassemble too.
Just FYI, in my personal experience the whole torrington bearings falling out of place is a wee bit blown out of proportion. The clutch push-down/play at back of engine is just a precautionary measure, because they could fall.
But I had my engine dismantled on an engine stand, and I had the shaft float back and fourth, and the bearings didn't fall out of place. It takes a bit of work to make them drop out but in some cases it doesn't take a whole lot, so better safe than sorry.
08-24-2005, 01:53 PM
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
woo got the front cover off, how would i know if the needle bearings fell? or would i?
anyway clutch is all the way down, i loosened the bolt then hit it towards the back making sure it was all the way rearward before taking the bolt off and out.
But yea i got it off without removing the oil pan or anything, just needed a good size prybar to pop the decently tight seal between it and the oil pan. Hardest part was taking the a/c and p/s bracket off, which ive done before so it wasnt too dificult. I wish this was my other 7 cause id just leave the p/s and a/c off, but the g/f might cruise around in this car so those things are necessities lol.
kevin.
anyway clutch is all the way down, i loosened the bolt then hit it towards the back making sure it was all the way rearward before taking the bolt off and out.
But yea i got it off without removing the oil pan or anything, just needed a good size prybar to pop the decently tight seal between it and the oil pan. Hardest part was taking the a/c and p/s bracket off, which ive done before so it wasnt too dificult. I wish this was my other 7 cause id just leave the p/s and a/c off, but the g/f might cruise around in this car so those things are necessities lol.
kevin.
08-24-2005, 11:34 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
Well my bad it's easier to see when the engine is on an engine stand, but you can kind of look (depending where the counterweight is) under the pump chain and in between the counterweight and the thrust plate is where one is, and if it doesn't look centred it's fallen.
But anyways you have the clutch down and the play at the back, it's really not going to give you any problems.
It was a while ago when I did this motor but I recall being able to see it easily.. But it was on a stand not in an engine bay.
But anyways you have the clutch down and the play at the back, it's really not going to give you any problems.
It was a while ago when I did this motor but I recall being able to see it easily.. But it was on a stand not in an engine bay.
08-25-2005, 02:59 AM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Wayne, NJ
Posts: 4,837
yea im just gonna silicone it all up and remove the OMP gear and **** while im in there. then ill throw it back together and then i gotta take off the UIM and **** anyway to remove the rats nest parts that are left so illl block off the oil injectors at the same time.
then i just have to wait for my diff and stub axles from banzai, and then gotta figure out what to do about the destroyed ujoint since theyre not replaceable and mazdatrix's ujoints are only for their driveshafts./
kevin.
then i just have to wait for my diff and stub axles from banzai, and then gotta figure out what to do about the destroyed ujoint since theyre not replaceable and mazdatrix's ujoints are only for their driveshafts./
kevin.
08-25-2005, 10:38 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Canada
Posts: 3,502
It's alot easier if you want to get rid of the MOP, to just leave the drive gear and crap in it and just use a block off plate
If you follow the small oil gallery path in the front cover which is a feed for the metering pump, some say it also lubes the front torrington bearings somehow... Anyways if you block off the MOP you have to block that gallery... Which in turn stops lubing the torrington bearings? There was an argument about it last time.. I don't remember what the result was..
Perhaps check the rotary build forum..
I remember by the time I read that thread I had already installed my front cover with MOP drive gear removed and the oil gallery blocked off.
If you follow the small oil gallery path in the front cover which is a feed for the metering pump, some say it also lubes the front torrington bearings somehow... Anyways if you block off the MOP you have to block that gallery... Which in turn stops lubing the torrington bearings? There was an argument about it last time.. I don't remember what the result was..
Perhaps check the rotary build forum..
I remember by the time I read that thread I had already installed my front cover with MOP drive gear removed and the oil gallery blocked off.