Finally turbo swapping my vert
12-09-2007, 09:48 AM
#12
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Location: Amityville, New York
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My fear is that I wont be able to let it sit in the garage a month then hop right in on a sunday afternoon and drive it 100 miles.
I can only hope it stays as reliable as it has been for its 152k mile life as a NA car.
I swore it would never happen unless it looked as if it came from the factory like that, minus the powdercoat and other
dress up items I hope we can pull it off.
I can only hope it stays as reliable as it has been for its 152k mile life as a NA car.
I swore it would never happen unless it looked as if it came from the factory like that, minus the powdercoat and other
dress up items I hope we can pull it off.
12-09-2007, 11:32 AM
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jensen Beach, FL / Sylva, NC
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Ditch the OMP and just premix, the OMP does nothing, I always though ti did until I saw 2 engines apart, one using premix the other the OMP it was VERY obvious at that point the OMP was a band aid because Mazda knew no one would deal with premix.
As far as HP goes, if the car is intended to be a daily driver I would go with a T04E or GT35R or something small for a turbo, nice quick spoolup and great driveability. Shoot for about 320 the the wheels for Daily driving and you'll have a really fun car that will last a long long time.
Good luck with the swap.
BTW - Who assembling the motor? I have never seen anyone push the apex seals in while its together before.
Also, AAA is now offering insurance, I am insuring my RX7 with a stated value of 15K, full coverage for $400 a year with a 5K a year mile allowance.
As far as HP goes, if the car is intended to be a daily driver I would go with a T04E or GT35R or something small for a turbo, nice quick spoolup and great driveability. Shoot for about 320 the the wheels for Daily driving and you'll have a really fun car that will last a long long time.
Good luck with the swap.
BTW - Who assembling the motor? I have never seen anyone push the apex seals in while its together before.
Also, AAA is now offering insurance, I am insuring my RX7 with a stated value of 15K, full coverage for $400 a year with a 5K a year mile allowance.
12-09-2007, 03:20 PM
#14
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my vert costs me $125 a year to insure with 10k coverage, I might up it after this.
My turbo is small and I already have it and its brand new- I will run it with this set up and see how it does
then really research some other turbos later on.
I am now debating electric fans or not, I know the stock fan cools great, part of me wants to ditch it and part of me does
not want the draw on the electrical system
The OMP adaptor is a pretty neat thing, its a total mechanical adaptor that will work off the throttle linkage.
My turbo is small and I already have it and its brand new- I will run it with this set up and see how it does
then really research some other turbos later on.
I am now debating electric fans or not, I know the stock fan cools great, part of me wants to ditch it and part of me does
not want the draw on the electrical system
The OMP adaptor is a pretty neat thing, its a total mechanical adaptor that will work off the throttle linkage.
12-09-2007, 06:29 PM
#15
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jensen Beach, FL / Sylva, NC
Posts: 2,934
I switched to electric and its a total PITA. When I got Tony Farkas' car from Team, it had an electric on a series 5 motor. I put the OEM fan back on and it ran so much cooler. If I was willing to swap out some parts off my FD motor I could run a OEM fan too. Very tempting, the duel 11" fans I run draw a LOT of amps.
Back to the OMP, what are those Aviation ones supposed to accomplish?
I was at Pettits one day and asked Cameron and Candy about Premix Vs. OMP and Candy pulled 2 rotor housings off the shelf. One was from a car that only used the OMP the other was from a premix engine, according to them, both had approx the same miles on them.
The one from the OMP engine had a shiney line about 4mm wide from the OMP weep hole around about 1/4 of the housing, the rest of the housing was worn and dark.
On the premix motor the entire rotor housing was nice and smooth and no signs of wear. I was sold.
When I blew my engine the 1st time Cameron rebuilt it, he called me up to come see the internals of the engine after it had been run for about 2 years and had tons of Autocrosses and Track days on it. Barely any sign of wear. If it was not for my boost spike and malfunctioning boost controller, I would have run a long long time problem free with little wear.
I was dead set against premixing up until I saw for myself the benefits of it. I have since removed the OMP from my car and only premix now.
Back to the OMP, what are those Aviation ones supposed to accomplish?
I was at Pettits one day and asked Cameron and Candy about Premix Vs. OMP and Candy pulled 2 rotor housings off the shelf. One was from a car that only used the OMP the other was from a premix engine, according to them, both had approx the same miles on them.
The one from the OMP engine had a shiney line about 4mm wide from the OMP weep hole around about 1/4 of the housing, the rest of the housing was worn and dark.
On the premix motor the entire rotor housing was nice and smooth and no signs of wear. I was sold.
When I blew my engine the 1st time Cameron rebuilt it, he called me up to come see the internals of the engine after it had been run for about 2 years and had tons of Autocrosses and Track days on it. Barely any sign of wear. If it was not for my boost spike and malfunctioning boost controller, I would have run a long long time problem free with little wear.
I was dead set against premixing up until I saw for myself the benefits of it. I have since removed the OMP from my car and only premix now.
12-09-2007, 09:51 PM
#16
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basically it allows 2 stoke, not regular oil, to do the job.
Pre-mix works because of the 2 stroke oil, not because you are putting it in the fuel instead of how the OMP handles it.
So think of it getting the benefits of pre-mix without the hassle.
from the site:
Oil Metering Pump Adaptor
Wankel engines such as the one used in the MAZDA RX7 sports car need oil in the combustion area for lubricating the metal seals.
Most stock engines use a metering pump pumping a small amount of engine oil from the oil pan into the intake manifold and/or directly into the combustion chamber. Engine oil is designed to lubricate sleeve bearings and carry heat from the engine interior to some cooling areas. In the RX7 the heat is removed from the oil in an oil cooler. When engine oil is getting into the combustion chamber, it only is burning partially, leaving some unburned deposits behind. These deposits can build up and reduce engine performance.
One obvious method of preventing this is to disconnect the metering pump altogether and mix two-stroke oil to the gasoline like some older two-stroke engines require. With this method it has been demonstrated that two-stroke oil is an effective lubricant and there is no build up of combustion residues.
The Metering Pump Adapter, as offered by PCV Technologies takes the solution one step further in allowing to still using the stock metering pump but supply it with two-stroke oil. This adaptor pump is installed in conjunction with the stock oil metering pump.
With the Adapter installed, all that is needed is a small oil tank with two-stroke oil (you supply the two stroke oil reservoir tank), connected to the Metering Pump Adapter. The oil level in the tank should never be less then 6” above metering pump.
Oil consumption is approximately 1/100 of fuel used.
Pre-mix works because of the 2 stroke oil, not because you are putting it in the fuel instead of how the OMP handles it.
So think of it getting the benefits of pre-mix without the hassle.
from the site:
Oil Metering Pump Adaptor
Wankel engines such as the one used in the MAZDA RX7 sports car need oil in the combustion area for lubricating the metal seals.
Most stock engines use a metering pump pumping a small amount of engine oil from the oil pan into the intake manifold and/or directly into the combustion chamber. Engine oil is designed to lubricate sleeve bearings and carry heat from the engine interior to some cooling areas. In the RX7 the heat is removed from the oil in an oil cooler. When engine oil is getting into the combustion chamber, it only is burning partially, leaving some unburned deposits behind. These deposits can build up and reduce engine performance.
One obvious method of preventing this is to disconnect the metering pump altogether and mix two-stroke oil to the gasoline like some older two-stroke engines require. With this method it has been demonstrated that two-stroke oil is an effective lubricant and there is no build up of combustion residues.
The Metering Pump Adapter, as offered by PCV Technologies takes the solution one step further in allowing to still using the stock metering pump but supply it with two-stroke oil. This adaptor pump is installed in conjunction with the stock oil metering pump.
With the Adapter installed, all that is needed is a small oil tank with two-stroke oil (you supply the two stroke oil reservoir tank), connected to the Metering Pump Adapter. The oil level in the tank should never be less then 6” above metering pump.
Oil consumption is approximately 1/100 of fuel used.
12-10-2007, 01:21 PM
#18
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Jensen Beach, FL / Sylva, NC
Posts: 2,934
Remove the OMP completely, premix and be done with it. I buy my premix by the gallon and have about 8 little 8 oz. bottles I keep in my RX7 in the back. When I fill up I throw 6 oz.s to 12 gallons for daily driving and 12 oz. to 12 gallons for Autocrossing and road racing.
All that Aviation one is going to do is inject a tiny bit of oil through the weep hole. See my above posts, it does not work, it was Mazda's only way of getting oil into the engine without freaking out the consumer.
I mean, do what you want its your car but I am telling you its a waste of money and full on premix is 100X better.
All that Aviation one is going to do is inject a tiny bit of oil through the weep hole. See my above posts, it does not work, it was Mazda's only way of getting oil into the engine without freaking out the consumer.
I mean, do what you want its your car but I am telling you its a waste of money and full on premix is 100X better.
12-10-2007, 04:55 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by Jims5543' post='889774' date='Dec 10 2007, 02:21 PM
Remove the OMP completely, premix and be done with it. I buy my premix by the gallon and have about 8 little 8 oz. bottles I keep in my RX7 in the back. When I fill up I throw 6 oz.s to 12 gallons for daily driving and 12 oz. to 12 gallons for Autocrossing and road racing.
All that Aviation one is going to do is inject a tiny bit of oil through the weep hole. See my above posts, it does not work, it was Mazda's only way of getting oil into the engine without freaking out the consumer.
I mean, do what you want its your car but I am telling you its a waste of money and full on premix is 100X better.
All that Aviation one is going to do is inject a tiny bit of oil through the weep hole. See my above posts, it does not work, it was Mazda's only way of getting oil into the engine without freaking out the consumer.
I mean, do what you want its your car but I am telling you its a waste of money and full on premix is 100X better.
its going to inject 2 stroke oil, not regular motor oil.
thats the difference between this and a regular OMP set up.
the mazda way does not work well because it relies on motor oil, not 2 stroke.
And if Mazda's way was SO bad there would be thousands and thousands of bad motors out there.
so now I have become the guy who has the gauge mounted in his car before the motor, I feel so ashamed.
Its part of me getting the car ready to bring over there for the swap, figured I would tinker with this crap and
deal with the brittle mazda interior plastic on my own so no one feels bad if something breaks.
luckly nothing broke, I could not mount the other blitz gauges because I still have to track down some fittings for them to
work for me, you would think it would be easy to get japenese gauges working in a japenese car?
Maybe when I bring them to the motor I will find they thread right into the motor somewhere and wont have to use the RB adaptor
thats on the car now.
It only blocks a tiny bit of the un-viewed part of the tach. Its looks like it blocks more of it, but thats just the angle of the pictures.
it was nice to get it into the shop for once
