So there could be possible damage to the e-shaft it the front counterweight is 88 and rear counterweight is 89 or vice versa.



The 13B turns, but it's not as easy as my 13B-REW. So I'm wondering if there is damage.



I'll check the flywheel/starter just as a place to start, but I most likely will be taking the engine apart.



Thanks for everybody's feedback!

you NEED/MUST check the endplay of this engine.!!!!!



When the engine was assembled: Was the endplay measured? How was it measured? What orientation was the engine in when the endplay was measured?

REad this thread:

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...opic=14463&st=0

Touche, I didn't catch that the first time.

The root cause of the problem may be due to the spacer used ("V").

There was too much endplay.



There is heat scoring on the front face of the front stationary gear.

Some of the bearings from the needle bearing behind the stationary gear bearing plate fell out and were crushed.

The heat caused some oil coking and the front stationary gear bearing to seize to the e-shaft.

S5 rotors you need s5 counterweights . Shaft is the same. You can change without complete rebuild.

The person gave me S5 rotors and e-shaft, but S4 counterweights.



The needle bearing, thrust washer, and stationary gear bearing are trashed.

However, the rotor bearings (both) and front stationary gear look fine.

From the pic of the needle bearing, you can see it's missing a few bearings. The ones that popped out were mashed up and heated to the point where the remains look like solder blobs.



I had to use my gear puller to pull out the stationary gear. I love this tool! I use it for the counterweights as well.