I built a 13B NA engine with a 89 rotors, rotor housings, and e-shaft while the rest is 88.

Fresh set of bearings in each stationary gear and the rotors have new bearings as well.



It has an 88 auto counterweight, racing beat flywheel, and act clutch/pressure plate.



During a test drive after putting 28 miles on the engine, the electrical power faded out. It is due to the alternator being faulty. The car couldn't be push started nor start with the starter.

The starter starts hard for the first bump and then it slows to a stop real quick. Starter is a new reman.



I was able to "unbind" the engine by turning the front main pulley bolt counter clockwise.

Then, I could turn the engine clockwise several rotations with no binding. It does turn slower than my previous rebuilds (more impedance as I turn). However, it does not bind until I try the starter.



Considering the fresh rebuild, I would rule out carbon build up almost immediately.

The oil is maintained and there are no signs of significant leaks.

Coolant is fine as well.



The only thing that comes to mind is possibly the spacer is incorrect thickness (since it's a mixed set-up of parts). However, when I assembled the engine, the play was measured to be in spec.



Before I remove the engine and conduct a teardown, I am looking for suggestions at other things to inspect, like the ring gear on the flywheel or starter. It's odd that once I can turn the engine manually with a breaker bar, it doesn't bind. When I try the starter (torque), it appears to bind.

i think you answered your own question by saying that your alternator sucks.. and its turning over slow due to the lack of spark and fuel pressure

If you can turn the engine over w/o the starter and it does not bind. Then I would look at the ring gear on the flywheel and the starter gear itself. Out of curiousity when you checked endplay how was the motor positioned?

I recall that this motor orientation is such that the e-shaft is parallel to the ground.

so is there no power right now then? or is ther power and the starter isnt working?

There is power (voltage and current) and the starter turns over.



The issue is that the starter quickly slows down and binds. When you use a breaker bar on the front main pulley bolt, the engine appears to be locked up when turning clockwise. Turning counter clockwise can "unlock" the engine and then turning clockwise, it spins freely.



My concern is that the engine doesn't spin as freely as my 13B-REW and it binds up when I use the starter.

It's either the flywheel/starter binding or the spacer used during the assembly of the front cover is not the correct thickness (I doubt, but it's a possibility since it's my first rebuild with a mix of parts).



I will remove the starter and see if I can bump start the car.

If the motor spins freely by hand, I would attack the starter/flywheel/power issue. Do you have a way of monitoring your voltages while cranking the car? Pull the starter, test it...just because its a reman, doesn't mean it's in good shape. If the motor drove for 28 miles, I doubt your motor is too "tight" to turn over.

The obvious thing to me other than your stated problem is that you used the wrong counter weight. You need front and rear counter weights from an S5 not an S4. The assembly is out of balance as you have it assembled now.

That's true...and you said you used an '88 Auto counterweight..I believe the autos counterweights are different than the NA.



If you find no other issues, Ludwig is probably right, you'll want to swap out the counterweights to S5 to match your S5 rotors and e-shaft.



Another note though, I would think that the use of incorrect counterweights wouldn't cause the engine to "bind" but run poorly in generally...I guess it's possible though that the wrong counterweights put more strain on the starter and burned out....

He's got an auto counterweight because he's got an aftermarket light flywheel. The manual counterweight is built into the stock flywheel, but I do agree that you need to find an S5 auto counterwieght.

So there could be possible damage to the e-shaft it the front counterweight is 88 and rear counterweight is 89 or vice versa.



The 13B turns, but it's not as easy as my 13B-REW. So I'm wondering if there is damage.



I'll check the flywheel/starter just as a place to start, but I most likely will be taking the engine apart.



Thanks for everybody's feedback!

you NEED/MUST check the endplay of this engine.!!!!!



When the engine was assembled: Was the endplay measured? How was it measured? What orientation was the engine in when the endplay was measured?

REad this thread:

https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...opic=14463&st=0

Touche, I didn't catch that the first time.

The root cause of the problem may be due to the spacer used ("V").

There was too much endplay.



There is heat scoring on the front face of the front stationary gear.

Some of the bearings from the needle bearing behind the stationary gear bearing plate fell out and were crushed.

The heat caused some oil coking and the front stationary gear bearing to seize to the e-shaft.

S5 rotors you need s5 counterweights . Shaft is the same. You can change without complete rebuild.

The person gave me S5 rotors and e-shaft, but S4 counterweights.



The needle bearing, thrust washer, and stationary gear bearing are trashed.

However, the rotor bearings (both) and front stationary gear look fine.

From the pic of the needle bearing, you can see it's missing a few bearings. The ones that popped out were mashed up and heated to the point where the remains look like solder blobs.



I had to use my gear puller to pull out the stationary gear. I love this tool! I use it for the counterweights as well.