2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Cone Vs. Drop In Intake

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Old 07-06-2003, 01:25 AM
  #11  
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screw that box crap, that's a waste of time, energy, and looks like a lot of frustration. i'm going with FCManiac's idea: move the air filter to a cooler location.



and if you want cool air in the headlight area, just remove that crappy plastic peice. just two 8 mm nuts, real easy.
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:14 PM
  #12  
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I'm not expecting any magic transformation in the response or the overall speed of my car by replacing the filter. I just want my car to breathe a little better, but I want to do it right. My friend put his in front of his wheel well in his civic. The air flow there is quite nice, you can put your hand on his TB after a long hard drive... its barely warm. I don't know if this will work on an FC because i'm not too familiar with the aerodynamics of it... but anyone know of a good place like this? It doesn't rain here (pretty much ever) so water is not really an issue.
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:17 PM
  #13  
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FCManiac's idea has to be one of the best, if you're not concerned about water.



https://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?...showtopic=20367



i'm going in front of the radiator and moving the coolant reservoir, and cutting a hole next to the radiator where the coolant reservoir line used to run.
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Old 07-07-2003, 12:06 PM
  #14  
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The shape of a filter does matter to intake efficancy. Or I should say that the base of the filter does. Look for a filter that has a beveled opening into the intake track. A pipe that is rolled out and back on it's self with a smooth roll is best. A fluted pipe is not as good, but it's better then a straight cut. Along with a smooth flow through the filter, you want the same for all your intake plumbing. Pipes, couplers, etc. Hence the reason PVC is so bad. Fork out the $10 extra and get a mandrel bent pipe from ebay. Not only is metal more resiliant to wear, heat, and pressure, but a $30 intake is about the same you would spend on all the crap involved with making a PVC intake.



The link that is posted is a GREAT setup. Like I said in another thread, unless you are fording creeks, or other wise submerging your car up to the floorboards there is NO worry about hydrolock. Ice-man runs their filters as close, and in some cases closer to the pavement then this. Not to mention the brake cooling duct is between the ground and the filter, an added piece of insurance. I ran the filter in my Neon 9" from the pavement through 3 years in Seattle weather. No hydrolock, no issues, and my filter was open to the ground from the bottom. As long as you keep your inner fenders, which block the spray of the tires off the filter. I would be more scared of sucking in water running my filter in front of my radiator. Not only does it disrupt flow through the radiator, and engine bay, but it is also the first point where water hits the car when in traffic on the freeway. Don't forget about washing the car.



I guess if you are not trying to squeeze every ounce of power out of the car then going the budget route is GREAT. As I have told many of my friends, and customers alike, "you waste more money jerry-rigging things and 'making it work' then you would spend doing it right the first time."



As the sign on the wall in my old shop said..

Pick two;

you can have it done cheap

you can have it done quickly

you can have it done right
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Old 07-07-2003, 12:22 PM
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What happens when you're driving at night and your pop-up lights are up.. how is the pop-up air inlet thing going to help then? I've just always wondered about that..
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Old 07-07-2003, 02:30 PM
  #16  
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I took my air duct for my passenger side brake out and cut a 3" hole in the wall behind the headlight and made sure that the light would close (tight fit) and put my filter where the brake air duct. it stays cold all the time that way but its a pain in the *** to get to the filter (have to jack up the car and get under it) but it works. for plumbing from the TB to the filter, i used 2 3" turn down exhaust pipes and 3" straight pipe and cut the tips off the turn down pipes. the whole thing cost me about 25 dollars and it works great.
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Old 07-07-2003, 02:49 PM
  #17  
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I'd rather stick a duct breathing into the isolated airbox, coming in from the brake duct than actually sticking the filter down there.. Cuz I am an idiot and will probably drive the car into a huge puddle and suck water into it.. Plus... I have a nifty Idea... Mwuhahahaha..
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