I spoke with the Rotary shop that I bought the Center force dual friction from, and their opinion is that the clutch thickness is the problem with the clutch not fully dis engaging. I should pull the fly wheel and get only the clutch surface turned or try driving the car and seating the clutch with out over heating it.

I spoke with another rotary shop that I buy parts from and they did not agree. Either: A. I was sold the wrong clutch, or B. I bunged the pilot bearing on install.

No use in me tuning the motor and setting the idle till I get all parts attached working.

I guess next weekend (I have reserve duty this weekend) I will pull the trans again and check things out. I think I bunged the pilot bearing.

 

Something isn't right. The first shop doesn't know what they are talking about.

 

yes the pilot bearing on my 7 do the same thing. do you change the pilot bearing when you does the cluth job ? if not this is probably your problem



my 2 cents

 

there is also a clutch pedal adjustment you might want to check.

 

The clutch pedal is still at the factory setting. I changed the pilot bearing and seal with every clutch. I will drop the exhaust and trans again. I believe the pilot bearing is causing the shaft to spin. I might have damaged it intalling the bearing or the trans. A turbo II owner had the same difficulty as I and it was his bearing. thanks.

 

you should double check the slave cylinder too to make sure its pushing the fork all the way in for full disengagement. My master cylinder was going bad and only pushed the slave in part way.. couldn't get it into or out of gear after a while.

 

isnt there a specific tool for the pilot bearing?

 

I have the pilot bearing removal tool. I need to get a machine shop buddy to make me a instalation tool.

The clutch manster and slave are new. I am getting the required 2 inch movement of the fork.