Best Way To Add Fuel
#12
Hey, now we're getting somewhere!
Could RC Engineering have bored out my 550's? Figures, I just had a set cleaned. They're on the way back.
Who might sell the ND 1600's? Are they gonna cost me an arm? A leg? Left nut?
Could RC Engineering have bored out my 550's? Figures, I just had a set cleaned. They're on the way back.
Who might sell the ND 1600's? Are they gonna cost me an arm? A leg? Left nut?
#13
its good that u have a stand alone and a pump.. but the next best thing would be to get a good fuel pressure regulator.. some braided lines wit fittings and either 1300's with the stock rail or 1600 wit a custom rail.... also it depends what kinda turbo youre running and the complete engine setup...
#14
Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' date='Mar 17 2004, 12:50 PM
Hey, now we're getting somewhere!
Could RC Engineering have bored out my 550's? Figures, I just had a set cleaned. They're on the way back.
Who might sell the ND 1600's? Are they gonna cost me an arm? A leg? Left nut?
Could RC Engineering have bored out my 550's? Figures, I just had a set cleaned. They're on the way back.
Who might sell the ND 1600's? Are they gonna cost me an arm? A leg? Left nut?
it's not like a replacement fuel rail is cheap, and you usually end up buying a pile of AN fittings and hoses to make the aftermarket rail work with your setup, and a FPR etc.
#15
Why bother paying overpriced stuff if you can just get the Bosch 1600's for $75 from Marren?
I question what the original poster wants to do.
Stand-alone might be overkill.
I don't see no full turbo upgrade mentioned?
-Ted
I question what the original poster wants to do.
Stand-alone might be overkill.
I don't see no full turbo upgrade mentioned?
-Ted
#17
Originally Posted by RETed' date='Mar 17 2004, 01:16 PM
Why bother paying overpriced stuff if you can just get the Bosch 1600's for $75 from Marren?
I question what the original poster wants to do.
Stand-alone might be overkill.
I don't see no full turbo upgrade mentioned?
-Ted
I question what the original poster wants to do.
Stand-alone might be overkill.
I don't see no full turbo upgrade mentioned?
-Ted
My current motor has 100k on the clock and is blowing smoke. A new engine is in my immediate future.
My current turbo is a majestic hybrid. I have a manual boost controller limiting boost to 9 psi. If I need a bigger turbo, I'll get one, but I plan to kill this one first.
Before I buy the standalone, I will have acquired an Innovative LM-1 to determine where my A/F is.
You say why bother buying overpriced stuff if the Bosch's are $75.? If they don't fit the stock rail, they are actually 75+75+200=$350. Maybe for $350 I can buy a pair of ND's that will fit my stock rail?
I'm really just trying to get my ducks in a row at this point. Any input/criticism is heartily welcomed.
#18
Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' date='Mar 17 2004, 11:41 AM
You say why bother buying overpriced stuff if the Bosch's are $75.? If they don't fit the stock rail, they are actually 75+75+200=$350. Maybe for $350 I can buy a pair of ND's that will fit my stock rail?
I use triple stock o-rings, but others do not.
It's just $75 + $75 and maybe plugs if yours don't match.
-Ted
#20
Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Mar 19 2004, 01:12 PM
Ever consider the Haltech F5 AIC? Sounds like a pretty nice system, cheaper than a standalone, and you will be driving on the stock ECU so the car retains drivability.
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