2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

Best Way To Add Fuel

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Old 03-16-2004, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Mar 16 2004, 04:14 PM
why not just get nippon denso 1600's that go right into the stock rail?
$?
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Old 03-17-2004, 06:50 AM
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Hey, now we're getting somewhere!

Could RC Engineering have bored out my 550's? Figures, I just had a set cleaned. They're on the way back.

Who might sell the ND 1600's? Are they gonna cost me an arm? A leg? Left nut?
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Old 03-17-2004, 10:08 AM
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its good that u have a stand alone and a pump.. but the next best thing would be to get a good fuel pressure regulator.. some braided lines wit fittings and either 1300's with the stock rail or 1600 wit a custom rail.... also it depends what kinda turbo youre running and the complete engine setup...
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Old 03-17-2004, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' date='Mar 17 2004, 12:50 PM
Hey, now we're getting somewhere!

Could RC Engineering have bored out my 550's? Figures, I just had a set cleaned. They're on the way back.

Who might sell the ND 1600's? Are they gonna cost me an arm? A leg? Left nut?
RCE sells 1600 ND's, seva bought a pair for his t2... I think they were a bit pricy but most injectors that size are? It's annoying how they charge more for an injector with a larger hole than one with a smaller hole



it's not like a replacement fuel rail is cheap, and you usually end up buying a pile of AN fittings and hoses to make the aftermarket rail work with your setup, and a FPR etc.
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Old 03-17-2004, 12:16 PM
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Why bother paying overpriced stuff if you can just get the Bosch 1600's for $75 from Marren?



I question what the original poster wants to do.

Stand-alone might be overkill.

I don't see no full turbo upgrade mentioned?







-Ted
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Old 03-17-2004, 01:01 PM
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do u know if you are running lean withyour current setup? if you don't how do u know u need more fuel?
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Old 03-17-2004, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RETed' date='Mar 17 2004, 01:16 PM
Why bother paying overpriced stuff if you can just get the Bosch 1600's for $75 from Marren?



I question what the original poster wants to do.

Stand-alone might be overkill.

I don't see no full turbo upgrade mentioned?







-Ted
Okay, first off--the original poster (that's me! ) wants to run 12.50 in the quarter. Period.



My current motor has 100k on the clock and is blowing smoke. A new engine is in my immediate future.



My current turbo is a majestic hybrid. I have a manual boost controller limiting boost to 9 psi. If I need a bigger turbo, I'll get one, but I plan to kill this one first.



Before I buy the standalone, I will have acquired an Innovative LM-1 to determine where my A/F is.



You say why bother buying overpriced stuff if the Bosch's are $75.? If they don't fit the stock rail, they are actually 75+75+200=$350. Maybe for $350 I can buy a pair of ND's that will fit my stock rail?



I'm really just trying to get my ducks in a row at this point. Any input/criticism is heartily welcomed.
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Old 03-19-2004, 01:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' date='Mar 17 2004, 11:41 AM
You say why bother buying overpriced stuff if the Bosch's are $75.? If they don't fit the stock rail, they are actually 75+75+200=$350. Maybe for $350 I can buy a pair of ND's that will fit my stock rail?
There should be write-up's for modding these Bosch 1600's to fit in the stock rails.

I use triple stock o-rings, but others do not.

It's just $75 + $75 and maybe plugs if yours don't match.





-Ted
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Old 03-19-2004, 12:12 PM
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Ever consider the Haltech F5 AIC? Sounds like a pretty nice system, cheaper than a standalone, and you will be driving on the stock ECU so the car retains drivability.
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Old 03-26-2004, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by RONIN FC' date='Mar 19 2004, 01:12 PM
Ever consider the Haltech F5 AIC? Sounds like a pretty nice system, cheaper than a standalone, and you will be driving on the stock ECU so the car retains drivability.
I've been looking at the F5. Might be a good way to go for now. Does anybody have experience with this setup? Best way to rig it?
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