Battery Relocation, Boot.
01-31-2004, 06:55 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Aiken, SC
Posts: 810
I don't understand what you guys are going to rewire?
There is only 2 wires that have to be cut, and sodiered! And someone said to rewire the alternator. Why would you mess with that, all you have to do is shorten two wires, point them the other way, and hook them up to the new + cable you ran to the drivers side suspension tower.
What are you guys rewireing? I just did this to my supra7, but it wasn't because I wanted a better weight balance it is because my 7MGTE's alternator sits were the stock battery sits. Also why are all of you people doing this?
If someone says weight balance I'm going to fall out of my chair laughing!!!
There is only 2 wires that have to be cut, and sodiered! And someone said to rewire the alternator. Why would you mess with that, all you have to do is shorten two wires, point them the other way, and hook them up to the new + cable you ran to the drivers side suspension tower.
What are you guys rewireing? I just did this to my supra7, but it wasn't because I wanted a better weight balance it is because my 7MGTE's alternator sits were the stock battery sits. Also why are all of you people doing this?
If someone says weight balance I'm going to fall out of my chair laughing!!!
01-31-2004, 07:11 PM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Redwood' date='Jan 30 2004, 09:56 AM
The way I've done it in the past (mind you, it was on a racecar) was to secure the battery in the bin. I ran the - to the body there, just make sure it's an outstanding connection or you'll have problems. I then ran the large + to the starter and a smaller (I think 12 gauge, but can't remember exactly) + to the alternator. From there I ran a short length to the fusible links.
Not sure if running the fusible links off the starter would cause a problem or not but seems like it would work.
j9fd3s -> How long have you run this setup? Any charging problems?
Also, I used an Optima Red Top (gel cell) so that there's no need for a battery box or any of that crap.
Not sure if running the fusible links off the starter would cause a problem or not but seems like it would work.
j9fd3s -> How long have you run this setup? Any charging problems?
Also, I used an Optima Red Top (gel cell) so that there's no need for a battery box or any of that crap.
01-31-2004, 07:15 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Schofield Barracks, HI
Posts: 2,259
Originally Posted by wanta be boosted' date='Jan 31 2004, 08:55 PM
If someone says weight balance I'm going to fall out of my chair laughing!!!
but you arent a big guy on having a balanced car are ya? with taht big heavy inline 6
01-31-2004, 07:16 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by Redwood' date='Jan 30 2004, 12:56 PM
Not sure if running the fusible links off the starter would cause a problem or not but seems like it would work.
j9fd3s -> How long have you run this setup? Any charging problems?
Also, I used an Optima Red Top (gel cell) so that there's no need for a battery box or any of that crap.
j9fd3s -> How long have you run this setup? Any charging problems?
Also, I used an Optima Red Top (gel cell) so that there's no need for a battery box or any of that crap.
01-31-2004, 07:42 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: London, Ontario
Posts: 2,871
BUY A FUSE!!!
Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.
There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.
Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.
Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.
There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.
Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.
01-31-2004, 07:59 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Jan 31 2004, 08:42 PM
BUY A FUSE!!!
Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.
There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.
Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.
Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.
There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.
Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.
I have been meaning to get around to that!
01-31-2004, 08:04 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
tyson is very right.
I attended a rotaryrockets race day @ grattan and one of the cars suddenly died and wouldnt start again like it had a dead battery. It took a couple hours to get down to the power wires and find it had been rubbing on the frame and shorted out (the positive cable). I asked the pit guy no fuses on these things? he laughed and said no fuses on race cars.
The battery was dead, hot, and venting. And the alternator needed to be replaced.
man was the driver pissed, he lost out on most of the practice rounds for the day because of that stupid thing.
I attended a rotaryrockets race day @ grattan and one of the cars suddenly died and wouldnt start again like it had a dead battery. It took a couple hours to get down to the power wires and find it had been rubbing on the frame and shorted out (the positive cable). I asked the pit guy no fuses on these things? he laughed and said no fuses on race cars.
The battery was dead, hot, and venting. And the alternator needed to be replaced.
man was the driver pissed, he lost out on most of the practice rounds for the day because of that stupid thing.
01-31-2004, 08:07 PM
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Jan 31 2004, 05:42 PM
BUY A FUSE!!!
Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.
There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.
Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.
Guys if you're running a huge (-1 or 0 guage) wire that far, through the firewall or wherever, fuse it! Right at the battery.
There's just too many things for that cable to rub against, cut through the insulation and short. I had a 150 amp fuse on mine that worked for quite a while, until my starter began to fail and draw too much current.
Any good car stereo shop can 'hook you up'.