2nd Generation Specific 1986-1992 Discussion

auxillary ports (stuck closed - manually opened) also looking for part

Old 09-05-2011, 11:16 AM
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so I discovered this week my auxillary port actuators were not moving. After removing the actuators I discovered the actuators are frozen, and the sleeves are very difficult to turn.



For now I'm soaking the auxillary port actuators in transmission fluid to clean and lube them, and hopefully get them moving again.



I've also opened the auxillary ports manually (they stick, and are difficult to turn). As expected there was an increase in top end power, with a slight decrease in low-end (not undrivable by any means).



It also appears the arms on the sleeves that the actuators slide onto are bent.



Does anyone know of a low priced place to get new arms for the actuators, and the actuators themselves?



I'm going to be upgrading to atkins auxillary port sleeves while I have everything apart as well. Should make my six port a little happier.
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:54 PM
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Next on my list however is verify the VDI system is operational.
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:54 PM
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I got the actuators to stop being siezed. Unfortunately the rear auxiliary sleeve is quite difficult to move still. Got the front free so I guess I have one almost functioning port. Gonna make sure the actuator arm isn't bent and put the front actuator on for now. maybe with a bit of hard driving the carbon will burn out of the rear. Half considering getting some seafoam or something and introducing some into the manifold to try to clean it out.
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Old 09-05-2011, 03:22 PM
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Front and rear actuator arms are bent. Definately need new ones. I did salvage the Actuators though.
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:06 PM
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junk yard time
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:08 PM
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Just some notes for anyone wanting to wire their auxiliary ports open due to them not functioning.



My car didn't want to idle above 550 with my lights on and was damn near stalling until I opened the idle screw on top of the throttle body one full turn and did a fuel correction using the SAFC. +20% at 1000RPMS worked best for me. Without the fuel correction all opening the idle screw does is lean out the mixture and I saw no helpful change in idle RPMs.



Now she idles at a nice 750 with my lights on and around 850-950 with everything off.



I enriched by RPMs like you would set the idle mixture screws on a carb due to my lack of a wideband. I added fuel until the rpms dropped then backed off about 5%. I've found 5% increments on the SAFC to be most effective for setting the idle, anything less and the effect was negligable.



If you try to do what I just did and you lack a wideband and don't have experience tuning low load air fuel ratios, I recommend you dont try leaning it out, and dont even bother screwing with your hi-throttle correction. when adjusting a piggy back its easier to take things too far compared to tuning a carb. Part of the reason is you just have to press a button to change it. its easy to hold a button and watch the numbers change waiting for an effect instead of adjusting slowly and waiting for the change.



The other part of the reason being you have 8 points (on an old SAFC like mine) that you can adjust your fuel at.

Say you set them for every 1000 RPMS like I have mine set.

Lets say you only change the correction value for 1000 RPMS to say 10%. you leave 2000RPMS at 0%.

Well in between those two points the SAFC makes an educated guess as to where the correction factor should be.

so at 1100 its correcting 9%, 1200 its correcting 8% and so on.

Also outside your correction points, in example 750rpms it will correct the full 10% you have set at 1000rpms because there is no other correction point for the SAFC to figure out what you want it to do.



now in my case I corrected by 20% at 1000rpms. so at 1500rpms it is still correcting by 10% and at 1900rpms its still correcting by 2%.



Not very risky in my case because I richened it but if you start leaning it out, keep in mind your not just leaning out the point of adjustment, but everything between it and the next point.





P.S. let me know if this kind of information is helpful, and constructive critism is appreciated.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:15 PM
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So today and yesterday I seafoamed the RX7 through the intake, gas and oil sump.



Yesterday I poured 1/3 in the tank, and put 2/3 through the large black line on the plenum opposite of the throttle body with the engine off but heated up and let her sit about 20-25 minutes (she wouldn't run with the line off so I couldn't add seafoam).



It made the rx7 run much smoother and it UNSEIZED my rear auxillary port. Before it took a hammer to move it. after yesterdays seafoaming it was still tight, but moveable by hand.



Also my smoking on shifting decreased noticably.



So today I picked up another can. I put about 1/4 in the oil, and put 3/4 of the can in the intake plenum just like last time, moved the port open and closed for about 5 minutes and started her up and drove the **** outta her. now the valve is very easy to rotate, but sticks at the FULL open. The rest of the rotation is awesomely smooth. I'm gonna keep working it, and if it doesn't wanna free up I may run another partial can through her. also my smoke when shifting at redline is almost completely gone.



With the amount of seafoam I'm using you have to crank her at full throttle for about a minute to get her to run, and hold her at 4000+ RPMS for about 30 seconds to a minute to get her to run smooth and idle on her own. The second time made a MASSIVE amount of smoke. I couldn't see anything once she started running and smoked up about two blocks so solid my neighbors thought a house was on fire.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:53 PM
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Update: the auxilliary ports are almost perfect now. The rear one just barely sticks when fully open and the front never stuck. Keep in mind BOTH actuators were completely frozen, I got them moving by submerging them in ATF for about 6 hours and moving them by hand. Now they operate perfectly when pressure is applied. Now I just need to remove the Port arms that the actuators attach to and correct the bend in them or replace them.



Total cost as of today : $13 in seafoam (on sale, two cans) + ATF I had lying around (about 1/2 quart).



Another thing to note is when I got the car there was a vibration at idle, and you could visibly see the engine shake at idle. Also on Decel below 2-3k the engine would miss and the entire car would shake fore and aft. Both of these have been cured as well with the seafoam treatment.



I highly recommend using LOTS of seafoam on a high mileage rotary. Mine runs smother than my buddies 100k mile '88 vert. Mines at 156k miles...
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