nothing, I personally just wanted to be able to control when they open from inside the car for experimentation, i figured it would be simplest converting the system to electric solenoids and a variable rpm switch.
Oh and I have an S4 intake that uses backpressure, which I have very little of with full RB exhaust, and no air pump... so the aux ports stopped working. |
hmm see i have an rb exhaust and my ports work fine
mike |
You know, I was looking through my 1st gen manual and found instructions on testing the 5th and 6th port actuaters with low compressed air, like 2.5 psi or something. I always hear of people using tape or grease to check if they move or not, so I just thought using the compressed air would be easier.
|
yah, that would work, and then you could put a boost gauge in the 6 port line
mike |
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Dec 4 2002, 05:22 PM
hmm see i have an rb exhaust and my ports work fine
mike |
i cleaned mine out, and they stay clean cause they open and close all the time https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png
mike |
we are getting off the subject here . :smirk: . I think that you would need MIL spec solenoids to take the hell-like underhood heat out cars create. that is a very expensive way to do this...and you can get little continuous air pumps for a fair price
|
:werd:
|
Originally Posted by dac' date='Dec 3 2002, 07:51 PM
Here you go:
http://www.daczone.com/Electric_6port.jpg I never actually ran the motor with this, but it did work. I used springs (not shown) to keep the ports closed. |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:30 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands