I was bored at work so I checked out that other forum, and theres this thread going on there about 'fully blown electric auxilliary port activation'... I was excited at first until I actually read the contents, how on earth does using an electronic air pump to drive air pressure motors to actuate the aux ports equate 'fully blown electric auxilliary port activation' ?!



Anyways, I've thought about aux port and vdi actuation before, and it's always seemed like using electric rotary solenoids would work quite well, and would be very easy to control using rpm switches, and allow you to eliminate your mechanical air pump, and not require you to replace it with an electric one.



Has anyone here tried out any alternative methods of aux port actuation? If so, what were they? How well did it work?



I plan on trying some electric rotary solenoids later on, when I am done experimenting with my current LIM which has no aux port sleeves/actuators etc (want dyno results first). Try a google search for 'electric rotary solenoid' and there are a bunch of manufacturers, some claim 122 lbs-ft torque output even, so it should be no problem finding one powerful enough to fit the task.

er i mean 122 lbs-inch torque, this time limited edit post is annoying https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png

there a whole how-to on www.fc3s.org that looks like it will work pretty good. It uses a caddy air ride compressor. for electro-pneumatic actuation (i cant spell)

if your talking about the thread on rx7club.com..it makes perfect sense to me. Maybe u need to read over it again..all love 7club.. :bigok:

Doesnt make sense to me to have an electric air pump running the whole time the aux ports are to be open. you can setup electric solenoids to open and sit open without using any current and then close when you want them closed up again and sit closed, again, without using any current, only needing juice when switching states. Those air pumps are A: parasitic electrical load B: relatively heavy C: noisey D: don't last long when they run continuously ( which if you're driving hard for a long duration, is damn near continuous for the air pump).



I think the only reason nobody seems to try the electric solenoid method is because it requires more engineering to implement than just replacing a mechanical air pump with an electric one, reusing the stock pneumatic setup.

y dont do you what i did and just remove the sleeves??

Dave

E: crazy heat... those things wouldnt last long at all, unless you put heat shielding all around them, but **** that just pull the sleeves out or wire/weld them the **** open.



Just my .02 cents

then you crappy 'round town drivability, that is why we want to figure this out

Here you go:



http://www.daczone.com/Electric_6port.jpg



I never actually ran the motor with this, but it did work. I used springs (not shown) to keep the ports closed.

whats wrong with just cleaning them out and making it work properly?



mike

nothing, I personally just wanted to be able to control when they open from inside the car for experimentation, i figured it would be simplest converting the system to electric solenoids and a variable rpm switch.



Oh and I have an S4 intake that uses backpressure, which I have very little of with full RB exhaust, and no air pump... so the aux ports stopped working.

hmm see i have an rb exhaust and my ports work fine



mike

You know, I was looking through my 1st gen manual and found instructions on testing the 5th and 6th port actuaters with low compressed air, like 2.5 psi or something. I always hear of people using tape or grease to check if they move or not, so I just thought using the compressed air would be easier.

yah, that would work, and then you could put a boost gauge in the 6 port line



mike

well mine did til i replaced the stock y pipe and stock mufflers with the rb ones, then my top end disappeared... wired em open and it came back... the motors may have been a bit tired or sticky. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

i cleaned mine out, and they stay clean cause they open and close all the time https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png



mike

we are getting off the subject here . :smirk: . I think that you would need MIL spec solenoids to take the hell-like underhood heat out cars create. that is a very expensive way to do this...and you can get little continuous air pumps for a fair price

:werd:

Now thats a a nice NOS setup in that pic. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png