Ac Questions
07-16-2005, 02:13 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: denver
Posts: 270
When I got my car the A/c was taken out, i have most of the parts if not all of them. when I put it back in is it as simple as just bolting everything back in and putting all of the lines back in(hope it is because its hitting 100 around here lately)? A mechanic said something about a dryer, and after it’s removed you have to buy a new one to put back in…?
Thanks
scot
Thanks
scot
07-16-2005, 07:42 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 5
Originally Posted by ryderx' date='Jul 16 2005, 02:13 PM
A mechanic said something about a dryer, and after it’s removed you have to buy a new one to put back in…?
Thanks
scot
Thanks
scot
Thats the receiver/drier it has a dessicant in it to absorb moisture, so if it's been open for any time its full of moisture, and needs to be replaced. $20-$40.
You want to install it last, right before you vac/charge.
07-16-2005, 09:15 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 8
Ah -- finally a subject I know something about!
rxstevan is correct. The drier contains a dessicant to remove moisture from the system. Once the system has been opened it will need to be replaced. You might want to consider flushing the parts first if they've been sitting for a while. I've listed a site below that has flush and procedures for using it.
On the FC it (the drier) is very easy to find and work on -- it is right up front to the left of the radiator when looking in to the engine compartment from the front.
The procedure is to re-assemble all the parts and the lines except for the drier and compressor. Before connecting up the compressor, you'll need to add about 5 ounces of AC oil to the compressor (if it is a Sanden compressor), add two more ounces to the drier and connect it up.
You'll need the correct type of oil for the refrigerant you're going to use. For R-12 you can use a mineral oil OR a POE (ester) oil. For 134a you can use a PAG oil or a POE oil, but do not mix... Do not mix refrigerants.
Attach and connect the compressor.
Spin the compressor by hand a few revolutions to distribute some of the oil internally. This will also tell you if the thing has seized. It should turn quite easily at this point.
Pull a goodvacuum (29+ inches is best). Make sure it holds for a good 30-45 minutes. Moisture is your enemy -- the vacuum will boil off the water that might be hanging around inside the system.
You can then start by charging your coolant into the vacuum.
I recommend a good set of manifold gauges so you can see what is going on. They will tell you how your vacuum is holding, as well as your pressures, etc.
I also frequent this forum: http://www.autoacforum.com/
They are good people, and they have a great collection of FAQs and procedures. The www.ackits.com place that advertises and supports the site is reputable and has the right stuff you'll need if you end up needing any rings or parts or anything.
rxstevan is correct. The drier contains a dessicant to remove moisture from the system. Once the system has been opened it will need to be replaced. You might want to consider flushing the parts first if they've been sitting for a while. I've listed a site below that has flush and procedures for using it.
On the FC it (the drier) is very easy to find and work on -- it is right up front to the left of the radiator when looking in to the engine compartment from the front.
The procedure is to re-assemble all the parts and the lines except for the drier and compressor. Before connecting up the compressor, you'll need to add about 5 ounces of AC oil to the compressor (if it is a Sanden compressor), add two more ounces to the drier and connect it up.
You'll need the correct type of oil for the refrigerant you're going to use. For R-12 you can use a mineral oil OR a POE (ester) oil. For 134a you can use a PAG oil or a POE oil, but do not mix... Do not mix refrigerants.
Attach and connect the compressor.
Spin the compressor by hand a few revolutions to distribute some of the oil internally. This will also tell you if the thing has seized. It should turn quite easily at this point.
Pull a goodvacuum (29+ inches is best). Make sure it holds for a good 30-45 minutes. Moisture is your enemy -- the vacuum will boil off the water that might be hanging around inside the system.
You can then start by charging your coolant into the vacuum.
I recommend a good set of manifold gauges so you can see what is going on. They will tell you how your vacuum is holding, as well as your pressures, etc.
I also frequent this forum: http://www.autoacforum.com/
They are good people, and they have a great collection of FAQs and procedures. The www.ackits.com place that advertises and supports the site is reputable and has the right stuff you'll need if you end up needing any rings or parts or anything.
07-16-2005, 09:26 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 2,467
[quote name='PerroGrande' date='Jul 16 2005, 07:15 PM']Ah -- finally a subject I know something about!
rxstevan is correct. The drier contains a dessicant to remove moisture from the system. Once the system has been opened it will need to be replaced. You might want to consider flushing the parts first if they've been sitting for a while. I've listed a site below that has flush and procedures for using it.
On the FC it (the drier) is very easy to find and work on -- it is right up front to the left of the radiator when looking in to the engine compartment from the front.
The procedure is to re-assemble all the parts and the lines except for the drier and compressor. Before connecting up the compressor, you'll need to add about 5 ounces of AC oil to the compressor (if it is a Sanden compressor), add two more ounces to the drier and connect it up.
You'll need the correct type of oil for the refrigerant you're going to use. For R-12 you can use a mineral oil OR a POE (ester) oil. For 134a you can use a PAG oil or a POE oil, but do not mix... Do not mix refrigerants.
Attach and connect the compressor.
Spin the compressor by hand a few revolutions to distribute some of the oil internally. This will also tell you if the thing has seized. It should turn quite easily at this point.
Pull a goodvacuum (29+ inches is best). Make sure it holds for a good 30-45 minutes. Moisture is your enemy -- the vacuum will boil off the water that might be hanging around inside the system.
You can then start by charging your coolant into the vacuum.
I recommend a good set of manifold gauges so you can see what is going on. They will tell you how your vacuum is holding, as well as your pressures, etc.
I also frequent this forum: http://www.autoacforum.com/
They are good people, and they have a great collection of FAQs and procedures. The www.ackits.com place that advertises and supports the site is reputable and has the right stuff you'll need if you end up needing any rings or parts or anything.
[/quote]
Nice one man, thanks for the info!
rxstevan is correct. The drier contains a dessicant to remove moisture from the system. Once the system has been opened it will need to be replaced. You might want to consider flushing the parts first if they've been sitting for a while. I've listed a site below that has flush and procedures for using it.
On the FC it (the drier) is very easy to find and work on -- it is right up front to the left of the radiator when looking in to the engine compartment from the front.
The procedure is to re-assemble all the parts and the lines except for the drier and compressor. Before connecting up the compressor, you'll need to add about 5 ounces of AC oil to the compressor (if it is a Sanden compressor), add two more ounces to the drier and connect it up.
You'll need the correct type of oil for the refrigerant you're going to use. For R-12 you can use a mineral oil OR a POE (ester) oil. For 134a you can use a PAG oil or a POE oil, but do not mix... Do not mix refrigerants.
Attach and connect the compressor.
Spin the compressor by hand a few revolutions to distribute some of the oil internally. This will also tell you if the thing has seized. It should turn quite easily at this point.
Pull a goodvacuum (29+ inches is best). Make sure it holds for a good 30-45 minutes. Moisture is your enemy -- the vacuum will boil off the water that might be hanging around inside the system.
You can then start by charging your coolant into the vacuum.
I recommend a good set of manifold gauges so you can see what is going on. They will tell you how your vacuum is holding, as well as your pressures, etc.
I also frequent this forum: http://www.autoacforum.com/
They are good people, and they have a great collection of FAQs and procedures. The www.ackits.com place that advertises and supports the site is reputable and has the right stuff you'll need if you end up needing any rings or parts or anything.
[snapback]738943[/snapback]
[/quote]
Nice one man, thanks for the info!
07-17-2005, 06:47 AM
#9
Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: VA
Posts: 2,532
Absolutely you must replace the receiver/drier. And if you go with an R-12 charge you'll probably want to use a NEW compressor. R-12 is very expensive. I went to the trouble of replacing the compressor in my truck and recharging with R-12 several years ago. The crappy aftermarket compressor rebuild failed after less than a year, and my time and hard-earned money were for nothing. In retrospect, I should have bought the $400. compressor new from the dealer.
And if you choose to convert to R-134a, make sure there aren't any changes you need to make to the system. I'm personally not sure about this.
Moral: Do it right the first time, or do it again.
And if you choose to convert to R-134a, make sure there aren't any changes you need to make to the system. I'm personally not sure about this.
Moral: Do it right the first time, or do it again.
07-17-2005, 09:13 AM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 8
Originally Posted by 1988RedT2' date='Jul 17 2005, 07:47 AM
Moral: Do it right the first time, or do it again.
Yep -- very true. Do it right, do it once.
The drier comes as an entire unit with dessicant included (make sure the dessicant is compatible with the refrigerant you're going to use.) They are very easy and quick to replace. Any time the system has been opened up, you need to replace the drier.
Another thing -- you might have to pull vacuum several times. This is typical is moisture is present. If it won't hold after 3-4 times, then you've got a leak. Examine your hoses and fittings. If you have oily areas that are attracting dirt around a fitting or hose, this is a possible leak location.
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