91 tII tps and idle
Ok, soo here goes my long, boring, and annoying story.
So, prior to me getting the se on the road, I was DD amps 91 tII, just before I put it in the garage it started givin me the regular idle problem bouncing around and **** when accelerated warm up shuts off.
So, I say great I havnt really ripped the thing apart yet, I probly have a vac leak somewhere.
So, I pull the uim replace and ziptie all vacume lines and nipples, removed the iac and bac to clean, along with the emissin block off plates, replaced all the gaskets on the intake, injectors, orings and seats, tid, grounds and everything. Set the tps to 1000ohms and checked for dead spots no problem found put it all back together.
I KNOW there is no vacume leak
start the ****** up was good till the warm up system died down. Then the ******* thing started bouncing again
Shut it off and put it back in the garage bc I just wasted a week doing all this ****. Came home looked for some info in the other place. Found a lot of people having similar problems with the bac, iac and clutch swithes on the s5 causing the idle bounce
So, went back to the car started her up ****** started bouncing. So, I disconnected the bac, nothing, disconnected the iac, nothing, disconnected the clutch swich, nothing.
So, I got pissed and I said "well lets see if i disconnect the tps", disconect the tps and the ******* thing stopped bouncing and the idle went up so I readjusted the idle screws brought the idle down to a 1000rpm, rechecked the ohm reading on my tps, it was good. Plug it in and it ****** bounces again.
What the ****!!! Is the tps bad even tho it tests good? What should I try next?
Thanx,
James
So, prior to me getting the se on the road, I was DD amps 91 tII, just before I put it in the garage it started givin me the regular idle problem bouncing around and **** when accelerated warm up shuts off.
So, I say great I havnt really ripped the thing apart yet, I probly have a vac leak somewhere.
So, I pull the uim replace and ziptie all vacume lines and nipples, removed the iac and bac to clean, along with the emissin block off plates, replaced all the gaskets on the intake, injectors, orings and seats, tid, grounds and everything. Set the tps to 1000ohms and checked for dead spots no problem found put it all back together.
I KNOW there is no vacume leak
start the ****** up was good till the warm up system died down. Then the ******* thing started bouncing again
Shut it off and put it back in the garage bc I just wasted a week doing all this ****. Came home looked for some info in the other place. Found a lot of people having similar problems with the bac, iac and clutch swithes on the s5 causing the idle bounce
So, went back to the car started her up ****** started bouncing. So, I disconnected the bac, nothing, disconnected the iac, nothing, disconnected the clutch swich, nothing.
So, I got pissed and I said "well lets see if i disconnect the tps", disconect the tps and the ******* thing stopped bouncing and the idle went up so I readjusted the idle screws brought the idle down to a 1000rpm, rechecked the ohm reading on my tps, it was good. Plug it in and it ****** bounces again.
What the ****!!! Is the tps bad even tho it tests good? What should I try next?
Thanx,
James
Swap another TPS and see if it fixes the problem? Have you checked it through the range of motion with the ohmmeter? Is it linear, with no dead spots?
Usually, a TPS will develop a flaky spot at or just off idle, which is where it spends most of it's life in most cars.
Usually, a TPS will develop a flaky spot at or just off idle, which is where it spends most of it's life in most cars.
well i have that stupid led thing so ill try that i was understood that the ohm way was the best but ill try it why not. if it doesnt work you still have that s5 tb maybe the tps on its still good ill bye it from u
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