Removing the Flywheel Nut
10-01-2008, 03:50 PM
#1
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I have a motor from an '88 car and Im trying to take it apart, but I cant get the flywheel nut off. I have the mazda trix tools so that I can remove it, but I cant get the proper leverage/angle without the motor being in the car to still be able to break the seal on that bad boy. Anybody have any inventive ideas or tricks they've tried that might help me out? 
10-01-2008, 06:02 PM
#2
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An impact gun (no explanation).
A cold chisel, set it against one of the shanks and hit with a mini-sledge or large hammer in the loosen-direction (yes you will mangle the nut, but you buy a new one).
Heat up two or three shanks with an oxy-acetylene torch until it glows on the shanks, and quickly apply pressure (steel expands under heat, and a body of metal will collect heat faster than it can disperse it another it is in contact with aka the crank, therefore it will expand enough to turn it easily. No, a propane torch or a lighter will not work. You need heat it faster than the heat can spread within the body of metal, using a propane torch is not enough BTUs. Improper usage can bake the rear main seal).
A cold chisel, set it against one of the shanks and hit with a mini-sledge or large hammer in the loosen-direction (yes you will mangle the nut, but you buy a new one).
Heat up two or three shanks with an oxy-acetylene torch until it glows on the shanks, and quickly apply pressure (steel expands under heat, and a body of metal will collect heat faster than it can disperse it another it is in contact with aka the crank, therefore it will expand enough to turn it easily. No, a propane torch or a lighter will not work. You need heat it faster than the heat can spread within the body of metal, using a propane torch is not enough BTUs. Improper usage can bake the rear main seal).
10-02-2008, 11:35 AM
#4
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I'll try the chisel technique and if that doesnt work I'll try the oxy-acetylene torch. I have the flywheel stopper. The problem isnt the flywheel turning, it's finding a solid place I can put the motor so that It wont move when Im trying to pry the bolt off.
10-02-2008, 12:27 PM
#5
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I would favor the impact wrench over either of those methods. So much so, that if I didn't have a compressor and an impact wrench, I would load the engine up and take it to a friend's place or a shop that could do it. You could spend a lot of time heating and whacking the thing when five seconds and the right tool will do the job.
That said, I have used the chisel technique on other nuts with good success. The only time I've removed a rotary flywheel nut was with my air impact wrench, and it worked like a champ. Your results may vary.
That said, I have used the chisel technique on other nuts with good success. The only time I've removed a rotary flywheel nut was with my air impact wrench, and it worked like a champ. Your results may vary.
10-02-2008, 01:57 PM
#6
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Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='908961' date='Oct 1 2008, 04:02 PM
An impact gun (no explanation).
A cold chisel, set it against one of the shanks and hit with a mini-sledge or large hammer in the loosen-direction (yes you will mangle the nut, but you buy a new one).
Heat up two or three shanks with an oxy-acetylene torch until it glows on the shanks, and quickly apply pressure (steel expands under heat, and a body of metal will collect heat faster than it can disperse it another it is in contact with aka the crank, therefore it will expand enough to turn it easily. No, a propane torch or a lighter will not work. You need heat it faster than the heat can spread within the body of metal, using a propane torch is not enough BTUs. Improper usage can bake the rear main seal).
A cold chisel, set it against one of the shanks and hit with a mini-sledge or large hammer in the loosen-direction (yes you will mangle the nut, but you buy a new one).
Heat up two or three shanks with an oxy-acetylene torch until it glows on the shanks, and quickly apply pressure (steel expands under heat, and a body of metal will collect heat faster than it can disperse it another it is in contact with aka the crank, therefore it will expand enough to turn it easily. No, a propane torch or a lighter will not work. You need heat it faster than the heat can spread within the body of metal, using a propane torch is not enough BTUs. Improper usage can bake the rear main seal).
Colin make a good point. Heating it up helps to take off the nut and take off the flywheel. A good 15 minutes helps. I have used this in the past, take off the hood and still the braker bar from the top with slip a strong tube over it, at least 6 feet long and pull. Watch out you can slip and dent the car. Have someone hold the socket underneath so it doesn't slip off and strip ip.
10-02-2008, 04:50 PM
#7
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The saddest thing to me was that I went to 3 local shops and none of them had a socket that was large enough...I finally find a firestone that had the right size and then they didnt even have the correct adaptor to attach it to one of their impacts. Hilarious. THEN I went to a local mazda dealer and asked them If I could just throw them a couple bucks and have them pop it off. They come out of the shop trying to use the exact same tools that I was already trying to use myself to get the bolt off!! They said they didnt carry the 2 1/8 socket either.....I dont know why, but that just seems so strange to me.
Originally Posted by turborotor' post='909041' date='Oct 2 2008, 10:57 AM
Colin make a good point. Heating it up helps to take off the nut and take off the flywheel. A good 15 minutes helps. I have used this in the past, take off the hood and still the braker bar from the top with slip a strong tube over it, at least 6 feet long and pull. Watch out you can slip and dent the car. Have someone hold the socket underneath so it doesn't slip off and strip ip.
10-02-2008, 07:07 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by shlby123' post='909048' date='Oct 2 2008, 05:50 PM
The saddest thing to me was that I went to 3 local shops and none of them had a socket that was large enough...I finally find a firestone that had the right size and then they didnt even have the correct adaptor to attach it to one of their impacts. Hilarious. THEN I went to a local mazda dealer and asked them If I could just throw them a couple bucks and have them pop it off. They come out of the shop trying to use the exact same tools that I was already trying to use myself to get the bolt off!! They said they didnt carry the 2 1/8 socket either.....I dont know why, but that just seems so strange to me.
Damn! That's just crazy. Maybe take them one? I got mine at Sears for like $25.
10-02-2008, 10:05 PM
#9
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2 and 1/8th socket isn't a common size in the automotive industry, it's more of a trucking industry thing..
That being said, if you see a truck repair shop, or trailer repair shop, and the engine is in the back of your pickup truck, someone will do it for free from one of those places. They have what you need and it will take them two seconds to do it.
That being said, if you see a truck repair shop, or trailer repair shop, and the engine is in the back of your pickup truck, someone will do it for free from one of those places. They have what you need and it will take them two seconds to do it.
10-03-2008, 11:55 AM
#10
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Im sure there's a truck shop around here somewhere, gonna ask around.
Originally Posted by ColinRX7' post='909071' date='Oct 2 2008, 08:05 PM
2 and 1/8th socket isn't a common size in the automotive industry, it's more of a trucking industry thing..
That being said, if you see a truck repair shop, or trailer repair shop, and the engine is in the back of your pickup truck, someone will do it for free from one of those places. They have what you need and it will take them two seconds to do it.
That being said, if you see a truck repair shop, or trailer repair shop, and the engine is in the back of your pickup truck, someone will do it for free from one of those places. They have what you need and it will take them two seconds to do it.