4 questions under the hood
03-14-2002, 09:03 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 8
#1. The ABS pump was disconnected when I bought the car. Tonight I took the pump out and now I have two big white plastic connections hanging there. Can I just unplug the fuse and be done with it? Is there anything else that should be removed or unhooked? I don't know why the PO left the pump in if it was disconnected.
#2. I'm about to remove the ACV and BAC. Is there anything special to be done to the electrical connections going to them?
#3. There are 3 vacuum lines going into the ACV. Can I remove the lines completely and whatever is on the other end or is this too hellish and I should leave them in place but capped.
#4. What do you do with the coolant lines passing through the BAC?
Thanks for any help,
Blake
#2. I'm about to remove the ACV and BAC. Is there anything special to be done to the electrical connections going to them?
#3. There are 3 vacuum lines going into the ACV. Can I remove the lines completely and whatever is on the other end or is this too hellish and I should leave them in place but capped.
#4. What do you do with the coolant lines passing through the BAC?
Thanks for any help,
Blake
03-15-2002, 04:49 AM
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 7,316
1.Removing the fuse should be enough for ther ABS
2.Removing the ACV and BAC won't require anything special with the electrical connections.
3.Capping the lines would be easiest. THose hard metal lines go to the back of the intake manifold. If you remove them all then you'll have to cap the nipples on the back of the manifold.
4.The easiest thing to do with the 2 lines would be to connect them. The coolant also runs through the throttle body. |You could bypass that and modify the TB, but there's more work involved.
2.Removing the ACV and BAC won't require anything special with the electrical connections.
3.Capping the lines would be easiest. THose hard metal lines go to the back of the intake manifold. If you remove them all then you'll have to cap the nipples on the back of the manifold.
4.The easiest thing to do with the 2 lines would be to connect them. The coolant also runs through the throttle body. |You could bypass that and modify the TB, but there's more work involved.
03-17-2002, 12:50 AM
#5
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this turned out well... the coolant lines bolt on to the bac but it's a removable steel tube that screws onto the BAC with 2 screws. I unscrewed that, left the coolant hoses connected and it's all good. I'm going to make my own block off plates... seems easy enough. What do you recommend they be made of? Would aluminum hold up or does it have to be steel?
03-17-2002, 01:07 AM
#6
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 790
I removed my BAC and am in the process of putting it back. Without it you don't get that smooth startup procedure. You have to play with the gas pedal while starting the engine.
I epoxy filled what I needed and capped the coolant lines. I'm running a Haltech so I didn't think I needed the BAC.
I just spent today putting it back on. I didn't like the startup proceedure. Also with the BAC you have to put a air bleed valve in to adjust the idle. (This is no big deal).
I epoxy filled what I needed and capped the coolant lines. I'm running a Haltech so I didn't think I needed the BAC.
I just spent today putting it back on. I didn't like the startup proceedure. Also with the BAC you have to put a air bleed valve in to adjust the idle. (This is no big deal).
03-17-2002, 01:17 AM
#7
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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Originally Posted by Blake_AE' date='Mar. 17 2002,01:50
this turned out well... the coolant lines bolt on to the bac but it's a removable steel tube that screws onto the BAC with 2 screws. I unscrewed that, left the coolant hoses connected and it's all good. I'm going to make my own block off plates... seems easy enough. What do you recommend they be made of? Would aluminum hold up or does it have to be steel?
03-17-2002, 09:28 AM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 8
Originally Posted by dac' date='Mar. 16 2002,23:07
I removed my BAC and am in the process of putting it back. Without it you don't get that smooth startup procedure. You have to play with the gas pedal while starting the engine.
I epoxy filled what I needed and capped the coolant lines. I'm running a Haltech so I didn't think I needed the BAC.
I just spent today putting it back on. I didn't like the startup proceedure. Also with the BAC you have to put a air bleed valve in to adjust the idle. (This is no big deal).
I epoxy filled what I needed and capped the coolant lines. I'm running a Haltech so I didn't think I needed the BAC.
I just spent today putting it back on. I didn't like the startup proceedure. Also with the BAC you have to put a air bleed valve in to adjust the idle. (This is no big deal).
Do you think your funky startup would have anything to do with running haltech and no AFM AND no BAC as opposed to keeping the AFM?
And thanks for the note about the air bleed valve, I didn't know. Any recommendations on size or a part number? How much air does it have to be able to bleed off?
03-17-2002, 12:50 PM
#9
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 790
Haltech uses a MAP sensor and Throttle position sensor as opposed to the AFM that Mazda uses. It works, My 2001 Hyundai has a MAP sensor and no AFM (I know maybe a bad comparison of brands, but hey 140 hp from 2.0 liters and that 10 year warranty)... anyway back to the subject.
The BAC has nothing to do with the ACV. The ACV connects to the air pump (Yes I removed that also, since I went to a header and removed the air pump). The BAC is purely for idle control.
Here's what you do:
Block off the BAC hole with a plate. I made one out of metal. I removed the studs on the BAC and uses bolts that fit the threads. There is a 1/2 or so hose fitting that use to go to the Air Pass Solieniod valve (The thing under the BAC). Put a hose on that with a valve on it (such as a Turbo Bleeder valve or some other large valve). That will become your idle adjustment. Run the other end of this back here the BAC connects to in the air cleaner pipe, or air cleaner. The 2 coolant hoses need to be blocked also. (at the rear of the block and the front near the water neck. All the BAC hoses can be removed.
I removed my pri butterflys (since they are for cold start only) and epoxied these holes. I then removed all that linkage (in an attempt to improve airflow). I also blocked off the wax themo thing at the throttle control and removed all that crap.
It looked rear good and worked, but after checking with only Haltech users, most of them do use the BAC for idle control. So I went to the wrecking yard and picked up another manifold and spent yesterday putting these parts back on.
The BAC has nothing to do with the ACV. The ACV connects to the air pump (Yes I removed that also, since I went to a header and removed the air pump). The BAC is purely for idle control.
Here's what you do:
Block off the BAC hole with a plate. I made one out of metal. I removed the studs on the BAC and uses bolts that fit the threads. There is a 1/2 or so hose fitting that use to go to the Air Pass Solieniod valve (The thing under the BAC). Put a hose on that with a valve on it (such as a Turbo Bleeder valve or some other large valve). That will become your idle adjustment. Run the other end of this back here the BAC connects to in the air cleaner pipe, or air cleaner. The 2 coolant hoses need to be blocked also. (at the rear of the block and the front near the water neck. All the BAC hoses can be removed.
I removed my pri butterflys (since they are for cold start only) and epoxied these holes. I then removed all that linkage (in an attempt to improve airflow). I also blocked off the wax themo thing at the throttle control and removed all that crap.
It looked rear good and worked, but after checking with only Haltech users, most of them do use the BAC for idle control. So I went to the wrecking yard and picked up another manifold and spent yesterday putting these parts back on.
03-17-2002, 06:08 PM
#10
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Peoria, AZ
Posts: 10,906
Originally Posted by dac' date='Mar. 17 2002,10:50
Haltech uses a MAP sensor and Throttle position sensor as opposed to the AFM that Mazda uses. It works, My 2001 Hyundai has a MAP sensor and no AFM (I know maybe a bad comparison of brands, but hey 140 hp from 2.0 liters and that 10 year warranty)... anyway back to the subject.
The BAC has nothing to do with the ACV. The ACV connects to the air pump (Yes I removed that also, since I went to a header and removed the air pump). The BAC is purely for idle control.
Here's what you do:
Block off the BAC hole with a plate. I made one out of metal. I removed the studs on the BAC and uses bolts that fit the threads. There is a 1/2 or so hose fitting that use to go to the Air Pass Solieniod valve (The thing under the BAC). Put a hose on that with a valve on it (such as a Turbo Bleeder valve or some other large valve). That will become your idle adjustment. Run the other end of this back here the BAC connects to in the air cleaner pipe, or air cleaner. The 2 coolant hoses need to be blocked also. (at the rear of the block and the front near the water neck. All the BAC hoses can be removed.
I removed my pri butterflys (since they are for cold start only) and epoxied these holes. I then removed all that linkage (in an attempt to improve airflow). I also blocked off the wax themo thing at the throttle control and removed all that crap.
It looked rear good and worked, but after checking with only Haltech users, most of them do use the BAC for idle control. So I went to the wrecking yard and picked up another manifold and spent yesterday putting these parts back on.
The BAC has nothing to do with the ACV. The ACV connects to the air pump (Yes I removed that also, since I went to a header and removed the air pump). The BAC is purely for idle control.
Here's what you do:
Block off the BAC hole with a plate. I made one out of metal. I removed the studs on the BAC and uses bolts that fit the threads. There is a 1/2 or so hose fitting that use to go to the Air Pass Solieniod valve (The thing under the BAC). Put a hose on that with a valve on it (such as a Turbo Bleeder valve or some other large valve). That will become your idle adjustment. Run the other end of this back here the BAC connects to in the air cleaner pipe, or air cleaner. The 2 coolant hoses need to be blocked also. (at the rear of the block and the front near the water neck. All the BAC hoses can be removed.
I removed my pri butterflys (since they are for cold start only) and epoxied these holes. I then removed all that linkage (in an attempt to improve airflow). I also blocked off the wax themo thing at the throttle control and removed all that crap.
It looked rear good and worked, but after checking with only Haltech users, most of them do use the BAC for idle control. So I went to the wrecking yard and picked up another manifold and spent yesterday putting these parts back on.
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