1600cc Injectors
#21
Now children, don't make me lock the thread!
I'd just buy an aftermarket FPR, and modify your secondary rail. Like Turborotor said, don't go cheap on the fuel system. Are you still running the stock injectors? EMS? Turbo?
I'd just buy an aftermarket FPR, and modify your secondary rail. Like Turborotor said, don't go cheap on the fuel system. Are you still running the stock injectors? EMS? Turbo?
#22
Originally Posted by ILUVMY88CABRIO' date='Jan 13 2004, 03:38 AM
Now children, don't make me lock the thread!
I'd just buy an aftermarket FPR, and modify your secondary rail. Like Turborotor said, don't go cheap on the fuel system. Are you still running the stock injectors? EMS? Turbo?
I'd just buy an aftermarket FPR, and modify your secondary rail. Like Turborotor said, don't go cheap on the fuel system. Are you still running the stock injectors? EMS? Turbo?
#23
Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Jan 12 2004, 09:02 PM
I toyed around w/ going from 1300's to 1600's and asked Cameron at Pettits. He looked at me and asked if I was planning on making over 500RWHP. I said no. He said then dont waste your money.
So I ask you, What kind of HP are you shooting for.
Have you ever seen this fuel calculator?? Its handy.
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2ndgencalc.cgi
So I ask you, What kind of HP are you shooting for.
Have you ever seen this fuel calculator?? Its handy.
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2ndgencalc.cgi
#24
think of it like this. Buy 2 1600's .. 70 bucks a pop. modify them. THEN, when you decide to spring for a more complete fuel system, buy 2 more if you cant use the modifed ones. 140 bucks, no biggie. It doesnt look like theres anyway around it
#25
Marren makes drop in 1600 injectors. They are offered through their pro-import series injectors. They run for 115 a piece. I don't think they are listed on the website so you will have to call them.
#28
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Jan 13 2004, 12:49 PM
you dont need 1600s, the stock turbo will see to that. if you tune it right you can run like 13-14psi on your setup with the fuel you've got, until the turbo is quits
#29
Originally Posted by Jims5543' date='Jan 13 2004, 12:02 AM
I toyed around w/ going from 1300's to 1600's and asked Cameron at Pettits. He looked at me and asked if I was planning on making over 500RWHP. I said no. He said then dont waste your money.
So I ask you, What kind of HP are you shooting for.
Have you ever seen this fuel calculator?? Its handy.
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2ndgencalc.cgi
So I ask you, What kind of HP are you shooting for.
Have you ever seen this fuel calculator?? Its handy.
http://www.rx7.com/cgi-local/2ndgencalc.cgi
the thingy is warning me to change my stock fuel pump, but i think in can manage with keeping it.
#30
Originally Posted by neevosh' date='Jan 13 2004, 01:22 PM
Just modify the stock rail. If you **** it up, you can find another one for
$15-20.
$15-20.
Seriously, folks, there's an easy solution to this.
Find a stock secondary fuel rail from a 1987-1988 TII. This will use banjo bolts instead of welded ends, and the fuel pressure regulator bolts on and off as well. Use this rail with the stock FPR and you will be fine.
Next, take your S4 fuel rail and bore out the holes to 35/64ths (0.547"). If you look hard, you can find a drill bit for this (http://www.arizonatools.com/catalog/...4/detail/1355/). make sure to set your depth lock on your drill press. Then, chamfer the ends so you don't destroy the o-ring when installing them.
Now you have a rail that bolts on in the stock position, will fit the stock fuel lines, and costs a total of $20 if you source one used, with a stock FPR.
If you are uncomfortable properly drillign this, just take the rail to your machine shop.
Your other options include: having a custom fuel rail built, which is more costly than you want, or using a stock o-ring and trimming the injector, which you also don't want.
Hope this helps.
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