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Originally Posted by CGeek2k' post='701065' date='Apr 17 2005, 05:18 PM
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/gal...1_96_18653.jpg I agree, always use multimeter due to following: Adjustment of TPS can reduce hesitation and idle problems. Checking max resistance of TPS can also uncover problems with high RPM hesitations. This resistance method is a more precise method that using twin diagnostics lights or measuring voltage. Both inferior methods require you to insert key into ignition and turn to "ON" position; this resistance method does not require you to turn ignition on. double-lights method will not always give you proper single light on condition. Voltage adjustments can be skewed from a weak battery. |
well, the lights may not be coming on at all because if you are using LEDs, you need to make sure that you are connecting them in the correct orientation, otherwise they definately wont turn on.
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Originally Posted by gbowers' post='760809' date='Sep 20 2005, 06:07 PM
I agree, always use multimeter due to following: Adjustment of TPS can reduce hesitation and idle problems. Checking max resistance of TPS can also uncover problems with high RPM hesitations. This resistance method is a more precise method that using twin diagnostics lights or measuring voltage. Both inferior methods require you to insert key into ignition and turn to "ON" position; this resistance method does not require you to turn ignition on. double-lights method will not always give you proper single light on condition. Voltage adjustments can be skewed from a weak battery. Does the car still need to be fully warm? Which of the prongs is positive, and which is negative, out of A and B? |
If you've already warmed up, set your TPS with a multimeter, and are still getting code 18, your switch is not functioning properly. Use the test lights to see what's going on. I set mine about five times before checking with the lights only to find that I was either at full close or full open, yet my sensor range was fine. There was no single light condition.
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would someone be able to post a picture of the 2 prong connector by the battery? i've found everything except for that. thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by CGeek2k' post='701065' date='Apr 17 2005, 02:18 PM
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/gal...1_96_18653.jpg i tried this method and the metter's reading 0 or close to 0. i turned the screw and never got any response out of it. i don't know it i'm doing this wrong on what? i used the green 3 port conection thing but this dosn't seem to work for me. the tps is only 6 months old at the most so it shouldn't be out, would it? |
radio shack here i come! ill let you know if my dumb ass figured it out by this weekend.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by isamu' post='224035' date='May 1 2003, 01:31 AM
Than find the green two prong connector over by the leading coils near the battery. This is the intial set coupler, you will need to jump it with a wire or paper clip. found the 3 slot by the air filter https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...05189_3300.jpg but beside the battery i dont have a 3 slot, i have 2 6 slotters and 2 1 slotters. if i need to jump the 6, which slots do i jump? Attachment 19814 |
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