So i dont get the lurching and bucking when in gear under 2000 rpms
IS there a way to properly set the tps without taking it to my mechanic? |
on the throttle thingy (the one you rev the engine under the hood with)
it has a screw with a spring over it on it, turn the screw either way until you get it pperfect , thats the best advice i can give lol |
You need to build a small checker light to set the Tps. Its super easy and cheap, less than 5 bucks at Radioshack. You need two red LED checker lights and three spaid connectors. Take the two lights and hook the red wires together onto one spaid. Than take the two black wires and put a spaid on each one, now you should have a three prong connector with the red wires on one spaid and the negatives each having their own. Warm the car up to its normal driving temp and then shut it off. Pop the hood and find the green 3 prong connector over by the air filter near the strut tower. On the connector one slot is horizontal and two slots are vertical. Plug the red wire spaid into the horizontal slot and the negatives into the vertical ones. Than find the green two prong connector over by the leading coils near the battery. This is the intial set coupler, you will need to jump it with a wire or paper clip. Now go back and turn the key to the on position but don't start the car. Go out and look at your checker lights. If both lights are on you should loosen the afformentioned screw on the throttle body until only one light is on. If no lights are on you should tighten the screw until one light is on. Hopefully I didn't get that backwards, its been a while since I have done it. It says in the manual anyways. Then once you have it adjusted turn the key off and remove the lights and jumper in the coupler. Then you can start it up and see what happens.
If one light comes on initialy, you might want to try tightening the screw unitl both are on and then very carefully loosening it until one comes on again. This has seemed to work for me. |
pictures? I'm confused... about making the LED checker thing. I dont understand your explination of how-to make it. THanks
Markus |
I think there is a write up on fc3s-pro.com, but the site seems to not be available. If you click on this, look down the page a bit and it will show you what the checker light looks light. This is a write up for checking the engine codes, but the tester lights are the same. http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/erro...codes/main.html
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http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/parts.jpg
http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...es/tester1.jpg https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png I guess I was doing it wrong when I set it on my car. I was going all the way in untill both lights were on, kept going untill one shut off, then backed it off untill both lights came back on. I guess thats why I have had kind of a shitty idle. I'll go reset it in the morning. I need to make my own light so I can give you yours back. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...R#>/tongue.png |
awesome. now i know what the hell you guys were talking about. I'll buy the lights tomorrow and get my TPS set! Hoooooraaayy! https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/bigok.gif
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Thanks isamu, i really needed that post.
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Hey is there a way that this same technique can be done if you have a Haltech computer but are using the stock s5 tps.
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are there differences between an s4 and s5 tps. i have an 1990 fc and my tps is bad. can i replace it with a tps from an 86?
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There is a difference between the two TPS'. If you have a 90 then you'll need one from an 89-91 car.
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S5s have a dual TPS sutup, where as S4s have a POS single TPS that reads 100% throttle when you have the gas pushed down 1/3 of the way. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...1047683358.gif
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I had this problem too, the easy way to fix it is to get an autometer and clamp it onto the wire comming out of the tps and play with the screw unitll it is set to 1 volt at idle, that is where it is supposed to be programmed to. Hope this helps
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Originally Posted by 7mech' date='May 8 2003, 08:36 PM
Hey is there a way that this same technique can be done if you have a Haltech computer but are using the stock s5 tps.
We don't need no stinkin LED's https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...DIR#>/wink.png |
Woops, sorry about the pics being gone for a while. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/smile.png
https://www.nopistons.com/isamu/albu...9efb321237.jpg] https://www.nopistons.com/isamu/albu...001d5cc899.jpg https://www.nopistons.com/isamu/albu...7a5b9bfef2.jpg |
i love you guys
i vouch for it it works |
It works a Treat!
Mine was out by 3 turns...:( If you haven't done it, do it! |
wheres the screw at?! damn im confused.
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Right there in front of the TB..(Center-Right)(On the left side of those 2 red hoses. That screw.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/upl...1065224052.jpg |
I've always heard the checker light method wasn't accurate.
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I used the checker light and it didnt work for me
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Read here for the proper method of adjusting the tps:
http://www.needfulthings.net/cgi-bin/ikonb...=ST;f=45;t=1464 |
Well whats with this Variable resistor also? it's something to do with idle?
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Originally Posted by Dorifc3s' date='Feb 22 2004, 07:24 PM
Well whats with this Variable resistor also? it's something to do with idle?
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ok, im not getting any thing from either of the lights. i checked the lights on the battery and they are working so whats the prob?
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it worked when i used the adjust it until the green/red wire gets 1 volt method. the tps is as tight as it will go.
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now i have surging idle. its pretty quick, at intervals of abotu 1 or 2 seconds, and goes between about 1600 and 1300. do i need a new tps?
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I just did the TPS check light thingy and it worked great!! No more hesitation, it only took a few seconds.
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i cant get the lights to come on either
also on the battery side of the engine, i cant find the right plug or somethin instead of having two ports to jumper i only got one and i checked my lights and they are working too |
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm.
https://www.nopistons.com/forums/gal...1_96_18653.jpg |
Originally Posted by CGeek2k' post='701065' date='Apr 17 2005, 05:18 PM
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/gal...1_96_18653.jpg I agree, always use multimeter due to following: Adjustment of TPS can reduce hesitation and idle problems. Checking max resistance of TPS can also uncover problems with high RPM hesitations. This resistance method is a more precise method that using twin diagnostics lights or measuring voltage. Both inferior methods require you to insert key into ignition and turn to "ON" position; this resistance method does not require you to turn ignition on. double-lights method will not always give you proper single light on condition. Voltage adjustments can be skewed from a weak battery. |
well, the lights may not be coming on at all because if you are using LEDs, you need to make sure that you are connecting them in the correct orientation, otherwise they definately wont turn on.
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Originally Posted by gbowers' post='760809' date='Sep 20 2005, 06:07 PM
I agree, always use multimeter due to following: Adjustment of TPS can reduce hesitation and idle problems. Checking max resistance of TPS can also uncover problems with high RPM hesitations. This resistance method is a more precise method that using twin diagnostics lights or measuring voltage. Both inferior methods require you to insert key into ignition and turn to "ON" position; this resistance method does not require you to turn ignition on. double-lights method will not always give you proper single light on condition. Voltage adjustments can be skewed from a weak battery. Does the car still need to be fully warm? Which of the prongs is positive, and which is negative, out of A and B? |
If you've already warmed up, set your TPS with a multimeter, and are still getting code 18, your switch is not functioning properly. Use the test lights to see what's going on. I set mine about five times before checking with the lights only to find that I was either at full close or full open, yet my sensor range was fine. There was no single light condition.
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would someone be able to post a picture of the 2 prong connector by the battery? i've found everything except for that. thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by CGeek2k' post='701065' date='Apr 17 2005, 02:18 PM
I never bother with the checker lights. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance across A and B and adjust the screw untill it is exactly 1 kOhm. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/gal...1_96_18653.jpg i tried this method and the metter's reading 0 or close to 0. i turned the screw and never got any response out of it. i don't know it i'm doing this wrong on what? i used the green 3 port conection thing but this dosn't seem to work for me. the tps is only 6 months old at the most so it shouldn't be out, would it? |
radio shack here i come! ill let you know if my dumb ass figured it out by this weekend.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by isamu' post='224035' date='May 1 2003, 01:31 AM
Than find the green two prong connector over by the leading coils near the battery. This is the intial set coupler, you will need to jump it with a wire or paper clip. found the 3 slot by the air filter https://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y1...05189_3300.jpg but beside the battery i dont have a 3 slot, i have 2 6 slotters and 2 1 slotters. if i need to jump the 6, which slots do i jump? Attachment 19814 |
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