Tb Coolant Hose
02-28-2003, 07:18 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: IL
Posts: 2,930
Originally Posted by Jerk_Racer' date='Mar 1 2003, 01:10 AM
I'll try that when I'm warming up my car once I get out of the office tonight. For the past week it's been getting cold in Seattle (relatively cold). Well, cold enough to have a frosted over car in the morning. I sure don't miss living in the MidWest. 
I turn over the engine and it sparks to life like always. No stumbling at all when it's cold like that. I then turn on the heater to full blast and get the rear defroster (minus two lines in the middle ) going to defrost the windows. It doesn't seem to mind that at all. Like I said, I'll try that out. But so far my car did not inherit any of the problems like some other cars have once they took this stuff out. Beats me. It's not as though I did anything special.
you seem to be talking about during cold start, the test should be done when the engine is at operating temperature already.
also where is it idlin (at operating temperature)
depending on what all you have removed, there may still be components influencing the idle at cold start, you've probably removed the thermowax since this is about that coolant hose, but theres still the aws solenoid... is that gone too?
in any case, theres no secret here, it's needed to hold the (reasonably low) idle steady under the varying loads... Even those who switch to standalone ECU like the haltech e6k still retain the BACV and the e6k supports it right out of the box, why would they bother with supporting the PWM BACV if it wasnt a desireable feature? It really depends on what you plan on doing at idle and how high you want your idle.
02-28-2003, 11:37 PM
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Marysville WA.
Posts: 1,847
I did the same as Jerk racer, took off the bac and ran the hose from the water pump to the rear of the engine, the hose fits pretty good. I ran like this for about 3 weeks and my idle was rough, but the car ran pretty much the same as before. However I still have my rats nest and and I didn't like the fact that the coolant hose was rubbing against the intake and fuel lines. So I just replaced all the hoses on the TB and put the BAC on again. I really like the look of the engine with the bac and hoses removed though, looks much cleaner.
03-01-2003, 03:50 AM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lynnwood, WA
Posts: 3,097
If you plan on keeping your PS and AC keep the BAC. I have all of that **** removed on my AE, so I just ran a line from the nipple on the front to the one on the back. But on my vert I still have PS, but removed the BAC, and it will die when under a load at idle. All it does is compensate for load on the engine.
03-01-2003, 05:16 AM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Okinawa, Japan
Posts: 602
OK, OK. Tonight I tried that test after driving in traffic for twenty minutes. Warmed up engine (steady at about 87 Celcius), heater on full steam, brights on, rear defroster on, both windows in motion, and I was getting on and off the brakes. Idle started at 800rpm then would slowly go up to 1,000rpm then settle back down to 800rpm. The idle only moved this much when the brakes were used. Otherwise it's movement was barely any at all. It wasn't bad and it never acted as though it was going to die.
There is no BAC or AWS on my car anymore. I double checked just to make sure my memory wasn't wrong. It wasn't. Everything is gone from in there. It beats me why it runs so nice when the concensus says it should do otherwise.
There is no BAC or AWS on my car anymore. I double checked just to make sure my memory wasn't wrong. It wasn't. Everything is gone from in there. It beats me why it runs so nice when the concensus says it should do otherwise.
03-02-2003, 12:33 AM
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Racer X' date='Mar 1 2003, 10:00 PM
He said its normally 800 but after hitting the brakes and stuff it went to 1000rpm.
mike