Tb Coolant Hose
02-27-2003, 03:16 PM
#11
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I went to autozone, and they found one; but only after telling me 6 times that they didn't have anything like that it's a heater hose for a ford something. Just make them go look for prebent hose that's pretty close to the same diameter it may be a little bigger than stock but still seals up fine.
Also it has to be cut on both ends to make it fit perfect.
Also it has to be cut on both ends to make it fit perfect.
02-27-2003, 04:34 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Baldy' date='Feb 27 2003, 01:26 PM
[quote name='AE Turbo' date='Feb 27 2003, 12:42 PM'] I'd just cap it. It will get plenty of heat through convection to deactivate the fast idle. You may have to adjust the fast idle a little though. No big deal.
s
s
bac doesn't need heat does it??? He was talking about the fast idle cam, it has thermowax that melts as the coolant heats up, turning off the fast idle cam. I mean the bac doesn't have anything like that, it just runs though a pipe on the outside of it... hmm.......
02-27-2003, 05:01 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Baldy' date='Feb 27 2003, 01:08 PM
I went to ACE hardware and bought 2 hose connectors, threaded on one end and ribbed on the other, and a 90 degree elbow, everything brass...if this doesn't work, I'll go ahead and cap it, but I'd like to know what to do about the BAC...any takers?
mike
02-27-2003, 05:25 PM
#14
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i'd keep the bacv, but eliminate the coolant. just plug the nipple on the rear of the engine and the water pump housing and be done with it. You can remove the small piece on the bacv which has the coolant flowing through it, it's just two screws holding it on.
02-27-2003, 08:22 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by pengaru' date='Feb 27 2003, 06:25 PM
i'd keep the bacv, but eliminate the coolant. just plug the nipple on the rear of the engine and the water pump housing and be done with it. You can remove the small piece on the bacv which has the coolant flowing through it, it's just two screws holding it on.
02-27-2003, 09:31 PM
#17
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Originally Posted by 1Revvin7' date='Feb 28 2003, 02:22 AM
I tapped and plug the holes on the engine and the TB, after doing the TB mod, i just put my bac back on too 
02-28-2003, 07:21 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Feb 27 2003, 06:01 PM
well i can think of 2 things. 1. the bac valve had coolant in it from the factory, if they could have saved the $1 worth of hose and clamps then they would have. they dont have the coolant in the bac on the later cars and it works better.....
mike
mike
The brass fittings were going to work with some old hose cut to fit, but I think the more that I eliminate, the easier things will be.
02-28-2003, 11:53 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by Baldy' date='Feb 28 2003, 05:21 AM
[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Feb 27 2003, 06:01 PM'] well i can think of 2 things. 1. the bac valve had coolant in it from the factory, if they could have saved the $1 worth of hose and clamps then they would have. they dont have the coolant in the bac on the later cars and it works better.....
mike
mike
The brass fittings were going to work with some old hose cut to fit, but I think the more that I eliminate, the easier things will be. [/quote]
um it has to hold about 15-20psi, not a lot.
mike
02-28-2003, 02:18 PM
#20
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After I do the TB mod to mine to my engine I'm garbaging that BACV.No need for it after that.Just makes it easier to work on and one less thing that could go wrong.Look at how many rotaries never had it?Theres a reason for that.