What Is Required For A 20b?
01-23-2003, 07:10 PM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 288
I'm finely chilled 
It gets old with people saying, "hey, that's no big deal right? Just slap that in there and away you go" And then there's the same questions, over and over, which is why there is a search function. :stickpoke:
It sounds like you have some great resources to tap off of. Building your own exhaust manifold is a great option and will save you a big chunk of money. Racing Beat makes a 3 rotor template for this application. I'm using an Indigo radiator that's an upgrade for the FC with staged temperature dual fans. I'm not sure about room in the FD...I suppose the way to approach it is to mount the motor, mount the turbo, and have a basic layout setup for the IC plumbing, then decide how big a radiator you can fit along with the IC. I thought it was a safer option with the FD's to stay with the SMIC (upgraded of course) vs. a FMIC because especially with the 20B, there's more heat generated, and thus, you need to maintain proper cooling through the air dam. An FMIC will most likely create too much blockage for a street application.
You may (if you don't already have them) want to consider dual oil coolers and/or larger dual oil coolers to help with the larger single turbo and larger motor as well. Rotaries use (I believe) 30% of oil as the main cooling vs. coolant, whereas pistons use only 10-15%.
MVA Motorsports also created their own subframe that will not create any bumpsteer, as advertised, and indeed, have a whole kit available for $35. Something to use as a reference anyhow. Check this out for more details: http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.ph...threadid=134563
Probably be a good idea to upgrade your brakes, rear tires (as large as you can fit for traction), adding extra gauges for important safety information, etc.
Which ECU to use is an on-going debate. For sure, the top contenders are Motec, TEC 3, Haltech E11, and Wolf 3D 4.0 as they will all run the 20B and are the latest thing out there.
It sounds like you have some great resources to tap off of. Building your own exhaust manifold is a great option and will save you a big chunk of money. Racing Beat makes a 3 rotor template for this application. I'm using an Indigo radiator that's an upgrade for the FC with staged temperature dual fans. I'm not sure about room in the FD...I suppose the way to approach it is to mount the motor, mount the turbo, and have a basic layout setup for the IC plumbing, then decide how big a radiator you can fit along with the IC. I thought it was a safer option with the FD's to stay with the SMIC (upgraded of course) vs. a FMIC because especially with the 20B, there's more heat generated, and thus, you need to maintain proper cooling through the air dam. An FMIC will most likely create too much blockage for a street application.
You may (if you don't already have them) want to consider dual oil coolers and/or larger dual oil coolers to help with the larger single turbo and larger motor as well. Rotaries use (I believe) 30% of oil as the main cooling vs. coolant, whereas pistons use only 10-15%.
MVA Motorsports also created their own subframe that will not create any bumpsteer, as advertised, and indeed, have a whole kit available for $35. Something to use as a reference anyhow. Check this out for more details: http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.ph...threadid=134563
Probably be a good idea to upgrade your brakes, rear tires (as large as you can fit for traction), adding extra gauges for important safety information, etc.
Which ECU to use is an on-going debate. For sure, the top contenders are Motec, TEC 3, Haltech E11, and Wolf 3D 4.0 as they will all run the 20B and are the latest thing out there.
01-23-2003, 09:57 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Vanderhoof,BC(Canada)
Posts: 5,542
Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Jan 23 2003, 07:11 PM
yah, the ecu thing boils down more to personal preference and ease of support than anything else.
mike
mike
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