Minimum Safe Oil Pan Depth
06-30-2005, 06:58 PM
#11
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 502
[quote name='93 R1' date='Jun 1 2005, 12:03 PM']The baffle keeps the oil near the pickup at all times so you aren't sucking air.
[/quote]
Justin, I know what a baffle is for. I am trying to figure out how it works -which I believe I also understand, but want verification.
Thanks,
Chris.
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Justin, I know what a baffle is for. I am trying to figure out how it works -which I believe I also understand, but want verification.
Thanks,
Chris.
07-01-2005, 01:45 AM
#13
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,550
I'd put the engine in the car the way you want it and then worry about ground clearance first. Measure it all out and then make the pan as big as you can. Large oil coolers will also help some with upping the oil capacity.
07-01-2005, 06:44 AM
#14
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[quote name='Dragon' date='Jun 30 2005, 10:45 PM']I'd put the engine in the car the way you want it and then worry about ground clearance first. Measure it all out and then make the pan as big as you can. Large oil coolers will also help some with upping the oil capacity.
[/quote]
The lower the motor is the less cutting I have to do to the firewall and transmission tunnel
.
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The lower the motor is the less cutting I have to do to the firewall and transmission tunnel
07-01-2005, 10:48 AM
#15
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[quote name='ccarlisi' date='Jul 1 2005, 03:44 AM']The lower the motor is the less cutting I have to do to the firewall and transmission tunnel .
[/quote]
Let me reword my post since I was in a hurry last time... First put the engine in the car the way you want to mount it... I.e. As low as your planning on going with it. Then drop the car down and see how deep you can make the pan and still keep enough ground clearance that you’re not going to rip it off the car over some shitty manhole cover or speed bumps. I'd worry about the following things in the following order...
1. Ground clearance of the pan.
2. Capacity
3. Baffling to eliminate air bubbles in the oil.
4. Structural integrity to reinforce the engine.
When you fill the oil pan up to the dipstick full line the oil level is actually above the pan and in to the engine a little bit. This is why FD's leak oil from the rear mounts even when the car isn't running until the oil level drops below the top of the oil pan... For this reason I wouldn't really worry too much about sucking air from hard cornering etc because the pan will stay quite full all the time so there isn't a lot of room for the oil to slosh around.
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[/quote]
Let me reword my post since I was in a hurry last time... First put the engine in the car the way you want to mount it... I.e. As low as your planning on going with it. Then drop the car down and see how deep you can make the pan and still keep enough ground clearance that you’re not going to rip it off the car over some shitty manhole cover or speed bumps. I'd worry about the following things in the following order...
1. Ground clearance of the pan.
2. Capacity
3. Baffling to eliminate air bubbles in the oil.
4. Structural integrity to reinforce the engine.
When you fill the oil pan up to the dipstick full line the oil level is actually above the pan and in to the engine a little bit. This is why FD's leak oil from the rear mounts even when the car isn't running until the oil level drops below the top of the oil pan... For this reason I wouldn't really worry too much about sucking air from hard cornering etc because the pan will stay quite full all the time so there isn't a lot of room for the oil to slosh around.
07-01-2005, 01:41 PM
#16
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Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 502
[quote name='Dragon' date='Jul 1 2005, 07:48 AM']Let me reword my post since I was in a hurry last time... First put the engine in the car the way you want to mount it... I.e. As low as your planning on going with it. Then drop the car down and see how deep you can make the pan and still keep enough ground clearance that you’re not going to rip it off the car over some shitty manhole cover or speed bumps. I'd worry about the following things in the following order...
1. Ground clearance of the pan.
2. Capacity
3. Baffling to eliminate air bubbles in the oil.
4. Structural integrity to reinforce the engine.
[/quote]
We're on and have been on the same page.
The goal is: Drop the height of the motor as much as possible
The limiting factors are:
(1) 5" of ground clearance
(2) The pan must be adaquate for track events.
I'm not concerned about the capacity of the pan because I am going to have more than enough in the lines and coolers, and can use a reserve if necessary.
Very good point. Thanks.
1. Ground clearance of the pan.
2. Capacity
3. Baffling to eliminate air bubbles in the oil.
4. Structural integrity to reinforce the engine.
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[/quote]
We're on and have been on the same page.
The goal is: Drop the height of the motor as much as possible
The limiting factors are:
(1) 5" of ground clearance
(2) The pan must be adaquate for track events.
I'm not concerned about the capacity of the pan because I am going to have more than enough in the lines and coolers, and can use a reserve if necessary.
When you fill the oil pan up to the dipstick full line the oil level is actually above the pan and in to the engine a little bit. This is why FD's leak oil from the rear mounts even when the car isn't running until the oil level drops below the top of the oil pan... For this reason I wouldn't really worry too much about sucking air from hard cornering etc because the pan will stay quite full all the time so there isn't a lot of room for the oil to slosh around.
07-02-2005, 06:00 AM
#17
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Ireland
Posts: 907
Having sad everything I've said, if that was my car I'd probably still end up dry sumping it. My opinion on these things is that you should spend a proportionate amount of the overall cost on engine safety - i.e. on a more expensive engine you spend more to make sure it doesn't go pop.
You should be able to install a dry sump system for about $1500, less if you're prepeared to do some of the work yourself - I'd imagine bespoke 20b kits are quite expensive, but if you buy the pump, plumbing and reservoir off the shelf, all you're left with is the sump, which if you can't find one cheap enough the only complications with making one are the scavenge inlets and these are just simple fittings for the pipes.
The advantages of dry-sumping I'm sure you know, the biggest being the peace of mind when you're taking those high speed corners on the track.
Mark
You should be able to install a dry sump system for about $1500, less if you're prepeared to do some of the work yourself - I'd imagine bespoke 20b kits are quite expensive, but if you buy the pump, plumbing and reservoir off the shelf, all you're left with is the sump, which if you can't find one cheap enough the only complications with making one are the scavenge inlets and these are just simple fittings for the pipes.
The advantages of dry-sumping I'm sure you know, the biggest being the peace of mind when you're taking those high speed corners on the track.
Mark
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