Turbo III

I still think it's pretty comparable. If we use your numbers we're looking at approx. $13K not including tuning which is something that needs to be done to any motor and should not be added to the mix at this point. You are also comparing a turbo to a supercharger in your comparison. Turbo systems are more expensive for equipment (there are more things needed) and therefore you are not comparing apples to apples. Put a SC on vs. a turbo in your pricing and we can remove the FMIC, wastegate, and oil/coolant plumbing putting us back near the $10K range for approx. 5-600HP. Plus...you won't need a custom exhaust manifold of the same complexity that a turbo does.



If you're doing a conversion, you're also looking at a different suspension setup, motor mounts, braking, drivetrain, wheels, wiring, etc that goes along with the added power. Sure you don't necessarily need to do these things but adding the motor is truly only one part of the package when it comes to building a high-performance car, albeit the most obvious portion to some.



"Even if I go EFI, used LS1 with low mileage (>30k) sell all day long on ebay for 3-4K. New complete LS1 crate motors with computer are only 5500, 320 hp. New LS6 crate motors are selling for 8K, 405 hp. Adding power to a v8 is also cheap. Super charger packages for the LS1/LS6 are 5500 and come with everything, ic, computer, new injectors. You can get 500+ out of an LS1 and 750+ out of a LS6."



So at this point, you're saying take a LS6 crate motor for $8K, plus a SC for another $5500 as you stated, and you're in the $13K range again... i.e., comparable power for the same cost and therefore not any "cheaper" than the rotor option, actually, it is MORE expensive at this point.



The only real benefit I see when going with a V8 is that most "Bob & Dick" mechanic shops are at least semi-competant in the fact that they know how a piston motor works and can maybe help you if your motor breaks down or you need help diagnosing something while on the road. But would you trust those people to work on your precious high-performance car? Doubt it.



But really, how many times do you take your car on long-distance trips where that would be applicable? That's why you pay for AAA and deal with the towing if it happens. OR...if you build your car correctly in the first place and not half-*** it like I hear and see so many people doing, you won't break down in the middle of nowhere, AK. Sure you can do "cheap" conversions, adding power, etc, but how reliable is it and how well is it engineered? You do, indeed, get what you pay for.

j9fd3s

i spent under 10k on my 20b fc (that includes suspension, tires etc), it has had about 3k miles put on it since it was "finished", including a 1000mile round trip to la for sevenstock and 5 hours on the dyno, the only 2 problems ive had were

1. it blew an intercooler pipe @140mph, fist sized hole too

2. and it has blown the fuse for the injector power once (this is prolly my fault, but i dunno why yet)



so ive taken my car long distance and the worst issue was the loud suspension



mike

RXTek

What are you guys using for a rear end and tranny? Stock? Cause I've been looking around at what would be the best to slap in a first gen... (Can't beat a free car that has no engine) But I keep finding that when I find something I like it's going to take a lot more then just sticking a bigger motor in it and calling it good... I think the best thing that I've found to do is find a junker 90's Camaro and rip all the goodies off it... Everybodies next door neighbor owns one or knows where to find one cheap. But I couldn't imagine running stock tranny or rear end in these cars when you guys are talking as much power as you are. 20B or V8 but what do I know

j9fd3s

the 20b will be ok with the stock turbo drivetrain, with the stock porting and turbos it cant make the power to break the drive train. in a 1st gen you have a couple of easy ways out.

1. 20b swap; use a turbo 2 transmission a custom drive shaft and the stock rear end

2. 20b swap; use a t2 tranny and have a 9" ford or similar put in using the stock suspension brackets

3. v8 swap use the tranny that came with the v8, the mazda one wont bolt to a v8, and either use the stock rear (for auto matic, or temporary) and put in the 9"...



mike

mkoch1

In my case I would be putting the engine in an utlima canam not a rx7, so the conversion would be a little easier. I did a little more looking around and have talked to mva motorsports about putting a 3 rotor in the car. After I get the kit built I am going to tow it up to them and see if the 3 rotor will fit. If it will I may go with it depending on the overall cost. The down side is the car is designed for a Chevy 350 so the dropping in a 3 rotor will require mods to the frame.



My biggest fear is the heat issue with a 3 rotor, the engine is in the rear and the rad is up front and not that big. I may be able to go with a high flow electric water pump and put a second small rad in the side vent.



mark

Turbo III

The more plumbing, the more total capacity you have and therefore the more cooling capability as well. With rotaries, oil cooling is extremely important next to coolant cooling so make sure both issues are dealt with properly.

Leetheslacker

The 20b should make that car sound more like a racecar then a 350 would i think. Anyways is that ultima canam street legal :smirk:

j9fd3s

those ultima's are cool :bigthumg:



mike

mkoch1

I never though of it that way. I guess more water does help but if the rad core isn't large enough it won’t dissipate the heat. I plan on putting 2 large oil coolers in the side vents regardless of which engine I go with, 350. ls1/ls6 or 3 rotor.





Depends on your state. Mine will be street legal in MD. Emissions will be my only issue. Depending on when I title it I may or may not have to pass emissions.

Turbo III

The more capacity you have, the more potential heat storage you have. I.E., it takes that much longer for the system to build up heat and you will therefore need a smaller radiator in order to cope with the air-air heat exchange but not by a whole lot, maybe 20-25% at the most. If you run your plumbing outside the car, say underneath the vehicle, you get the benefit of the air passing under the car cooling as well. Plus if you run copper or aluminum vs. stainless piping, the alloy itself will allow the heat to exchange that much more readily. Copper is a great conductor both ways. Think fuel lines, oil cooling, etc as well.