maybe you might remember i had a problem the day after i got my '83. ran like it had too much fuel. well i was starting to trake the carb apart and noticed something with the throttle cable. you may or may not know, but the throttle cable runs through this bracket(?) type deal with a nut on each end to keep it in place i would assume. well one of the nuts had slid down on the cable and the cable was just free flowing. is it possible it would effect anything, it looked like it would....hell i dunno, just a dumb kid trying to figure out whats wrong w/ my baby....problem was uit wouldnt run worth a **** unless it was floored....but would idle fine.....comments? https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...IR#>/dunno.gif

i had the throttle cable fall off completely once......

the only 2 things it can do is hang the throttle open, or fall off



mike

are you sure it was the throttle and not the choke?????

now of al things im having trouble putting the cables back in their places, but thats not the point. carb has been rebuilt and it is still getting too much fuel...or at least trhats what it seems. floods and stalls when gas pedal is pressed.......ran fine day 1, wouldnt day 2.

carb has been rebuilt and now asking about ignition and fuel lines/pumps/filters.

We will learn from this one. :bigthumg:

learn what?....that im an idiot?

do you have the stock fuel pump? do the leading and trailing ignitions fire?



mike

stock fuel pump, will check on the leading and trailing.

coils are fine...remember, car started acting like a bitch overnight.

Is it just when you floor it when it stalls on you?

no, you have to floor it to rev up, press the gas like in regular driving and it stalls....so, it'll "flood" im assuming unless its floored. sounds right. any ideas?

maybe the vent solenoid in the carby



mike

vent sel....damn, sounds familiar and ive probably held it before, but how would it, why would it, and what does it control. what would happen if it went bad (symptoms)?

i think the vent solenoid opens the return line back to the tank, if the return line is closed it will overfill and run crappy?



mike

solenoid has been tested and is good, unfortunatly. hard to get it started and idle now:( any more ideas?

how about checking the compression?



mike

thik the seals are going bad....how can i check the compression?

take the trailing plugs out, and crank it over by hand



mike

i thik the trailing ignitor is not firing. that would cause the tach to stop working right? bbecause it stopped working the day the car started ******* up.

yes, the tach gets its signal from the trailing side



mike

can i convert it to get its signal from the leading?

I tried jumping my tach off the leading when I first had my engine in it and it doesn't work.Something tells me it might just be a burned out ignitor.Thankfully mine are still good.

.....but when i checked the timing, i used trailing wires, and it was firing....battery is dead and its late, so i cant crank it now or jump it till tomorrow, but it was firing when the car started ******* up, so most likely it is still...but what do i know?

Still you might want to check the ignitors.The little things on these cars will give you the most headaches. :smirk: I know from experience

By the way compression is good also, hopefully with this weather coming i wont have to work tomorrow, remember, i wash peoples dirty nasty cars for now, and god, people just do not care about their cars i swear, brand ******* new cars, dirty as **** with gum in the carpet and coffee stains on the seats, makes me sick, my car is 20 years older than their new cars, but in better condition......well at least theirs run https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...O_DIR anyways, i hope the weather is bad tomorrow so i wont have to work and can go to the junk yard, going to, umm, borrow a 12a carb tomorrow.....fuckers want 200$ and there is no fence https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

Another carb but I thought this one was rebuilt???Should be good if it was.

it was redbuilt by me, but a buddy is highly recommending getting another one off a working rotary, just to be safe, this was my first rebuilding. could always use spare parts too. and the guy who recommended it introduced me to the world of rotary, and has helped me all along the way. he's had prolly 6 rx7s, all of which he modified and customized blah blah blah by himself, and hes like the only friend i have that knows his ****, so im going to take his advice on this one...besides, at least ill know that THAT carb works if its coming off a working rotary. https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/BURNOUT.gif

Cool.Sounds like mike.He has a lot of rotary cars in his yard.

LoL damn really?....must be nice having parts readily available. its probably something simple that im overlooking, but i just cant see what?

Thats how my last problem was.My + cable came loose on my new starter and didn't notice it.Some many headaches.I got to quit overlooking the small things

but i dont know what is different, day 1 was perfect..cut it off, went to bed, got up, went to crank and all this started....makes me think its somthing electronic, why else would something go bad overnight?

Thats usually electronic when that happens.double check everything in the ignition circuit and let us know.

will do.

just going to go pick up a god damned carb off of a running 1st gen...shhhh https://www.nopistons.com/forums/pub...#>/biggrin.png

So still problems with it.If you swap a 13b that doesn't mean it will fix it tho.It might be outside the main engine ignition and some like a bad coil or ****.

going to pick up a working carb tomorrow. and what is an afterburn (or anti after burn?) hose, or solenoid?

Its a valve on the stock Nikki carb.

know anything about the fuel regulator?...well i thought i had replaced it but it was something else entirely different, so im thinking that may be the cause of it, we'll see as soon as i get some more cash:(

I never heard of a carbed 7 coming with a regulator.My 83 ran good tho even with a dead rear rotor. :bigthumg: