Going to look at a 1985 GSL-SE tomorrow. White with red interior, one owner, 74k miles and supposed to be in good shape, as it was covered and garaged.



A few questions:



Are there any GSL-SE specific problems I should look for? Any idea what compression is supposed to be in psi on a good motor?



Where does the line have to be drawn when adding breathing modifications? For example, could I add all the bolt-ons and the stock computer be sufficient or would I have to be careful like on the turbo cars? Where is the line drawn? What is commonly done to allow for more fuel?



Thanks.

 

check the six ports. see if you can move them by hand. If not, a good negotiation for price.

 

look for a bad oil cooler, they like to crack. make sure it idles consitently, they like to stick high. thats pretty much it for gsl-se problems, they really dont break.



look for rust, etc etc



the gsl-se is fuel limited, but its an na so you're not doing any damage. basically it will let you have a full exhaust (like the rb streetport system) and that will be very close to maxxing out the fuel system, if not maxing it.



mike

 

Went and looked at it.



The exterior was pretty nice for a 1985 car. The paint looked to be in fairly good condition except for some stone chips on the front bumper area. No rust anywhere including underneath of it.



The interior was very nice. Was the red/burgundy colour and had no cracks or anything like that in the leather.



That said, the engine bay was extremely dirty. It looked as if a film of glue was brushed over the entire engine bay; especially the hood.



The car ran relatively well. It idled right about what seemed like 750 RPM but did fluctuate ever so slightly at times. The transmission shifted nicely and the car seemed to have decent power.



The guy was asking $3,900.00 and I'm not sure if I would pay that for it. The car only had 73,000 and some change miles on it.

 

time to negotiate.

 

I have a 1985 GSL-SE. It is a great car. Some things I would look for:



Leak between the aluminum and iron housings on the driver's side of the engine (near spark plugs). This leak is usually caused by 1) overheating of the engine or 2) use of synthetic oil (it causes the internal seals to shrink) or general poor maintenance. This leak is called a 'dowell pin leak' because it generally starts where an interal dowell pin is located. Also, ask if the gear oil or limited slip diff. oil has been changed. This is something you want to do at 75k miles. Does your state have emissions testing? If so make sure it will pass. I paid $3800 inspected for mine and I would pay it again. Good luck.

 

How exactly can I identify that the 5th and 6th ports are functioning properly? Is it as simple as moving the vacuum canister pistons up and down with my hand so as to make sure they are not stuck?

 

its tricky, i just drive it but if you're not use to it....



people put a dab of grease on the actuator shaft and see if it igets wiped off. it should have good power all the way up to 6500ish if it feels flat after 4k either the 6 ports are staying shut or the secondary double throttle butterflies arent working right



mike

 

Mine never did work.



On a second gen, if you just free rev it it should work enough to determine if they are stuck or not, just by watching.



An alternative (less messy) way to do what j9fd3s is saying, is to get zip ties, zip them tight around the plunger. tight enough that it will stick around the shaft when its pushed in.



This will show you 1) if they are working and 2) if they are working in their full range of motion.



THats the only thing i'd look out for.



I paid $3000 US for mine, w/ 16x7" rims, and i consider that a great deal.