1st Generation Specific 1979-1985 Discussion

Really Old Engine

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Old 03-29-2004, 11:50 PM
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i have a 1983 rx7 with like 140000 miles on it every one around where i live said it won't start can't start because its been sitting for 2 years with no use (problem is every mecahanic around here is scared shitless by a rotary even the rx8) now me and my friend decided to start working on it cause we were tierd of all the crap we were getting from people. well we got it to turn over and stay started for like two seconds and the it dies but keeps trying to start even with the key out. the fact that it turned over gives me hope that i don't need a new engine after all (thanks to the guys who offerd thiers). do i have any hope of salvaging the engine thats still in it? could it be as simple as changing the 2 year old oil and gas (i plan on doing that anyway) or is it alot more complex?
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Old 03-30-2004, 01:36 AM
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Mine set for almost a year and we managed to get it started up with minimal work...drove it for a few years on the origional engine...and it would have kept going if the radiator didn't crap out on me.



So...change or add fluids...check the plugs and electrical connections for corrosion...basic stuff like that...and give her a go



worse thing that will happen is you're stuck with the same paperweight you got right now...or you could have a running car...so get to it and tell us how it goes



and if you have any specific problems...ask the forum...thats what were here for
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Old 03-30-2004, 06:57 PM
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Also don't forget to do the old ATF/Marvel mystery oil trick in the spark plug holes to losen up the apex seals. the carbon that builds up on them tends to freezeup after the engine has sit for a while and the apex seals will not seat properly through the rotation of the housing. the ATF/MMO will loosen up that buildup and keep your engine running stronger and longer.
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:30 PM
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hey guys thanks for the help so far. me and a friend tried to take out the gas but failed miserably (and got a little stoned ). however we did get a little gas out of the tank and it looked like gas streight from the station it wasn't brown or black, it was clear. we took one of the spark plugs out and made sure that it was the right kind it didn't have any corrossion on it, it did have oil on it, at the tip thats inside the engine (don't know if thats normal). i plan on changing the oil this weekend anyway. the mechanics that were there (its at their shop) helped us out a little they messed around with the distributer and we got it to run for like 5 to 6 seconds this time. they said it may be a bad dis. rotor. i have to correct myself from my last post there is somebody in town that does work on rotaries (but he ain't cheep) my friend found him he told us that best case, you just need to add or change fluids (what yall have been saying) or i need a new starter. he did also say to try try the fluids first before i put any more money into it. he did tell us about the ATF/Marvel mystery oil trick (i don't think thats what he called it, but same process). I had to go to work before we had a chance to try it.





OH and i have to give propps to Odessa Muffler and Brake for letting us us their tools and their space. (like they even know about this forum...but gotta give credit where credit is do. )
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Old 03-30-2004, 10:44 PM
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If it runs for a few seconds I'd say the starter is good enough for now. Work on air/fuel/spark.
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:00 PM
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When I got mine I could get the car started...just for a while...then it would die...run...die...take the cover off the carb and get someone to watch for gas while someone else cranks it...



there is a tiny little...i guess its sorta like a needle or something from what i understand...and they have a tendancy to stick...so we tapped the top of the carb a few times after a tip from a local rotary junkie...started right up



also might check to make sure you're getting spark...if you don't have a tester for it...just get you any old spark plug...or remove one from the car...stick it in the end of whatever plug wire you want to test and touch it to the body...crank...if its working you should be able to tell in a few seconds...then atleast you'll know if each one is firing or not...even if the car won't start



just...try not to touch the spark plug...unless you like gettin the crap shocked out of you



ehm...might also try using the choke...it won't start without it...don't know if you guys have the manual or not...its down to the left of the steering colum...pretty close to it actually...has CHOKE wrote on it...can't miss it



pull that out all the way and try cranking the car...if it manages to start back it off to around 1,500 rpm or so...too much and the car will sputter and die...too much and it'll sound awful...but I think the exact point varies from car to car...just play with it...thats how I fix almost...everything



but as Option6 said air fuel and spark are key...no matter what kind of car you're working on...so go figure out what is working...then post it here so we can figure out what the root of your problem is
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:15 PM
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oh oh...and I forgot...if you havn't already...charge the battery...it takes quite a bit of juice to crank a car...and if its been setting for a few years...you might want to think about taking the battery somewhere and getting it tested for free...just because it reads 12volts doesn't mean its good...if they've got bad cells they drop to almost nothing when you hit em with a load



but anway



best of luck
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:26 PM
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bout how much oil would the ATF/Marvel mystery oil trick take, im lookin for anything that can help me avoid sendin my car away, but i dont wanna attempt something and make it worse, ya know?
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:31 PM
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I always put a cap down each of the primary carb barrels...mine used to flood a lot...rebuilding the carb helped considerably...just don't do it inside a building...it'll kill all the bugs for a few city blocks when it starts back up
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Old 03-30-2004, 11:38 PM
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lol awsome, thank's
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