Project Update
03-29-2005, 10:26 PM
#272
Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 47
#2 should go to the wax pellet setup on the intake. I am not sure ihow it is on the Cosmo, but the GSL-SE has a small coolant line that runs from the back of the water pump, to the wax pellet assembly on the TB, and then another small coolant line from there to that nipple on the rear plate. Does your water pump have a nipple on the back of it? If so, just run a coolant line from the water pump to that nipple on the rear plate.
Kent
Kent
03-30-2005, 12:23 PM
#273
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 2,483
[quote name='j9fd3s' date='Mar 29 2005, 11:09 PM']#1 and 3 go to the heater, theres an in and an out on the firewall, or you can cap em off for now, or whatever
[/quote]
I thought I would connect them just in case I ever have problems with cooling...which is the in and which is the out?
[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Mar 29 2005, 11:25 PM']#2 should go to the wax pellet setup on the intake. I am not sure ihow it is on the Cosmo, but the GSL-SE has a small coolant line that runs from the back of the water pump, to the wax pellet assembly on the TB, and then another small coolant line from there to that nipple on the rear plate. Does your water pump have a nipple on the back of it? If so, just run a coolant line from the water pump to that nipple on the rear plate.
Kent
[/quote]
I removed the second set of butterflies in the TB, so I will need to block these off somehow. Is it best to use some hose and put a bolt in it or?
[snapback]692572[/snapback]
[/quote]
I thought I would connect them just in case I ever have problems with cooling...which is the in and which is the out?
[quote name='gsl-se addict' date='Mar 29 2005, 11:25 PM']#2 should go to the wax pellet setup on the intake. I am not sure ihow it is on the Cosmo, but the GSL-SE has a small coolant line that runs from the back of the water pump, to the wax pellet assembly on the TB, and then another small coolant line from there to that nipple on the rear plate. Does your water pump have a nipple on the back of it? If so, just run a coolant line from the water pump to that nipple on the rear plate.
Kent
[snapback]692584[/snapback]
[/quote]
I removed the second set of butterflies in the TB, so I will need to block these off somehow. Is it best to use some hose and put a bolt in it or?
03-30-2005, 01:16 PM
#276
Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 47
There is a nipple on the back of the water pump then, correct? Just run a small coolant hose from the back of the water pump to that nipple on the rear housing since you are not using the secondary throttle plates. I will go out and check the hoses on my SE to let you know which connection goes where for the heater hose connections.
Kent
Kent
03-30-2005, 01:33 PM
#277
Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Corvallis, OR
Posts: 47
Okay, the nipple that comes out of the driver's side of the block (#1) goes to the nipple on the firewall closest to the driver. The connection at the bottom of the radiator (#3) goes to a metal line (connected with heater hose) running along the passenger side on the engine bay and then the metal line is connected to the heater core through the nipple closes to the passenger side on the firewall (with heater hose).
03-30-2005, 09:07 PM
#279
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 911
If you are not running the heater then simply cap off the nipple on the rear iron and the lower rad hose. Also if you don't have water going to the TB anymore pull the nipples out of the block and water pump housing and drill/tap 1/4npt and plug them.
When you try to start it the first time break out the laptop and turn off the injectors and crank it over for a while to build oil pressure. While cranking watch the screen to see if it's seeing rpm's (couple hundred while cranking). If everyting looks ok then turn the injectors back on and lock the timing at -5 and try to fire it up. If you get lucky and it runs on the first crank like mine did make sure you have the timing light handy so you can 0 in the timing by adjusting the trigger angle. Adjust the values untill the yellow mark lines up with the pointer. Then turn off the timing lock and you're ready to tune.
BTW, the haltech does a good job of controlling the rad fan.
Good luck!
When you try to start it the first time break out the laptop and turn off the injectors and crank it over for a while to build oil pressure. While cranking watch the screen to see if it's seeing rpm's (couple hundred while cranking). If everyting looks ok then turn the injectors back on and lock the timing at -5 and try to fire it up. If you get lucky and it runs on the first crank like mine did make sure you have the timing light handy so you can 0 in the timing by adjusting the trigger angle. Adjust the values untill the yellow mark lines up with the pointer. Then turn off the timing lock and you're ready to tune.
BTW, the haltech does a good job of controlling the rad fan.
Good luck!
04-01-2005, 08:30 AM
#280
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
Posts: 2,483
Well I attempted to start it last night, it was pretty late so just 2 attempts were made.
The starter is not turning over! My question is regarding grounding the starter. Is it already grounded? There is a wire running from what I would assume is the negative terminal to the inside of the starter and I vaguely remember the starter documentation (if you can call it that, it was one half sheet of paper which has since disappeared) stating that said wire grounded the starter.
At any rate, the spark plugs work (I think) because we got a mini explosion when I turned the ignition. I almost crapped my pants thinking my ECU had blown or something electrical was messed up. I just think there was some fuel in the motor (or maybe an injector fired, I had forgotten to turn them off), and the spark plugs ignited it. Or maybe I'm completely wrong.
I'm soooooooooooooooo close!
The starter is not turning over! My question is regarding grounding the starter. Is it already grounded? There is a wire running from what I would assume is the negative terminal to the inside of the starter and I vaguely remember the starter documentation (if you can call it that, it was one half sheet of paper which has since disappeared) stating that said wire grounded the starter.
At any rate, the spark plugs work (I think) because we got a mini explosion when I turned the ignition. I almost crapped my pants thinking my ECU had blown or something electrical was messed up. I just think there was some fuel in the motor (or maybe an injector fired, I had forgotten to turn them off), and the spark plugs ignited it. Or maybe I'm completely wrong.
I'm soooooooooooooooo close!