1st Generation Specific 1979-1985 Discussion

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Old Jun 14, 2004 | 12:40 PM
  #121  
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You shouldn't need the oil pan to install the front cover.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:27 PM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by 83turbo' date='Jun 14 2004, 01:40 PM
You shouldn't need the oil pan to install the front cover.
I just wanted to wait to get everything and do it at once.



I got some goodies in the mail today!



< 100 miles on the NPR, new oil pan and the 12a to 13b front cover mount.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:29 PM
  #123  
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Wow, an NPR that isn't TWEAKED to HELL!
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 08:32 PM
  #124  
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It's big...doesn't have 3" piping like I was praying for like someone in the single turbo section...how is that going to effect my pressure in the cooler? It won't be as efficient right?



Tomorrow should be a good day for the 7. I should at least have the motor assembled. Do you recommend putting the IM on it while it's in the car, or out?



Almost forgot to ask...can I just use gasket material for the oil pan? I didn't get the baffle because I've heard it just invites leaking...I thought about doing the Ito oil pan mod. Any input?
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 09:38 PM
  #125  
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You'll be fine with 2.5 in and out. 2.5 in is the common size of outlets for most single turbos so that will match. But the intake on your cosmo is ~3" but you can always use reducers if you have to.



I'd keep tape over the ports while putting in the engine. Wait till it's all set in place before you put on the intakes.



As fas as the oil pan I'd follow Ito's method. It's proven.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 09:53 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by setzep' date='Jun 14 2004, 10:38 PM
You'll be fine with 2.5 in and out. 2.5 in is the common size of outlets for most single turbos so that will match. But the intake on your cosmo is ~3" but you can always use reducers if you have to.



I'd keep tape over the ports while putting in the engine. Wait till it's all set in place before you put on the intakes.



As fas as the oil pan I'd follow Ito's method. It's proven.
Okey-dokey.



I just need a 1/2" tap for the new return fitting...and a punch for the pan and it's game time.
Old Jun 14, 2004 | 10:00 PM
  #127  
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Have at er
Old Jun 15, 2004 | 07:42 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by Dysfnctnl85' date='Jun 14 2004, 05:32 PM
It's big...doesn't have 3" piping like I was praying for like someone in the single turbo section...how is that going to effect my pressure in the cooler? It won't be as efficient right?



Tomorrow should be a good day for the 7. I should at least have the motor assembled. Do you recommend putting the IM on it while it's in the car, or out?



Almost forgot to ask...can I just use gasket material for the oil pan? I didn't get the baffle because I've heard it just invites leaking...I thought about doing the Ito oil pan mod. Any input?
I'm pretty sure those diesel truck intercoolers don't flow enough to require 3" plumbing. I know someone who had one on his Datsun (single turbo Chevy 350) and was getting a pretty severe pressure drop. Last I saw he had removed it.



Intercoolers are a big pain for numerous reasons.



When you punch the oil pan, use a point chisel or similar to enlarge the hole so you have plenty of material for threads.
Old Jun 15, 2004 | 09:13 AM
  #129  
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you dont really need to do the ito oil pan mod on a non fd, they have the mounts going thru the pan, so it actually gets torqued around a lot, the 1st gen/cosmo's dont really have this prollem. use silicon for a gasket.
Old Jun 15, 2004 | 11:19 AM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s' date='Jun 15 2004, 10:13 AM
you dont really need to do the ito oil pan mod on a non fd, they have the mounts going thru the pan, so it actually gets torqued around a lot, the 1st gen/cosmo's dont really have this prollem. use silicon for a gasket.
So JUST use silicon? Not gasket material too?



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