Lookie What I Bought.
#41
Yes you re drill the new hole 3cm down from the stock one in the T2 shift rod. After re drilling the hole 3cm down you wil have to cut off the "extra" length (if I remember right it's 1.5 inches but I'm sure my old thread tells you what to cut off). Yes you use the FB shifter since you are using the FB shifter housing.
#42
Thanks setzup.I'll remember that when I get to that part.I need my 83 to be done before I get another FB to start on.Then I get to do a FB to S4 wiring conversion. :rant: The fun part.
#43
That engine doesn't look like it's run in a while.
Make sure you spray GOBS and GOBS of WD-40 on everything
to make sure it restores that metal.
Also, pour 2-stroke or MMO down the rotors and turn them over
several times.
Good luck, and keep us posted - with smaller pics! :bigthumg
Make sure you spray GOBS and GOBS of WD-40 on everything
to make sure it restores that metal.
Also, pour 2-stroke or MMO down the rotors and turn them over
several times.
Good luck, and keep us posted - with smaller pics! :bigthumg
#44
Originally Posted by Directfreak' date='Feb 17 2003, 06:12 PM
That engine doesn't look like it's run in a while.
Make sure you spray GOBS and GOBS of WD-40 on everything
to make sure it restores that metal.
Also, pour 2-stroke or MMO down the rotors and turn them over
several times.
Good luck, and keep us posted - with smaller pics! :bigthumg
Make sure you spray GOBS and GOBS of WD-40 on everything
to make sure it restores that metal.
Also, pour 2-stroke or MMO down the rotors and turn them over
several times.
Good luck, and keep us posted - with smaller pics! :bigthumg
#45
Yeah, you'd wanna check out the turbo on it as well, ifs its been sitting for a while. I read an article of a guy who bought a turbo from a wreckers, and after he fitted it, it blew oxidised rusty **** all through his engine resulting in a whole engine rebuild.
#46
Originally Posted by drifter' date='Feb 17 2003, 08:12 PM
Yeah, you'd wanna check out the turbo on it as well, ifs its been sitting for a while. I read an article of a guy who bought a turbo from a wreckers, and after he fitted it, it blew oxidised rusty **** all through his engine resulting in a whole engine rebuild.
#47
It just showed up at my door today.Damn guy left me every little plug on the engine hooked up.Thats nice to see so I know where it all goes.Does anyone have the S4 ECU in thier cars on here?ON the ECU to dash plug where does theses wires go?I'm guessing half of them are useless on the FB.79Rx7:If your reading this could you send me that diagram of your S1-S4 conversion?Thanks
Look at the plug as it were pluged in the ECU.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| B/Y | BR/Y| BR/R| W | L/B | L/R | B/R | B/L | G/B | L/O | BR/Y| Y/B |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| L/Y | G/Y | R | LG | L | G | Y/L | O | BR | L/W | Y | Y/R |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Upper bank from left to right
B/Y - Hazard Heat swith
BR/Y - Trailing coil ignitor
BR/R - Port air solinoid valve
W - 1st Crank sensor,These 4 wires are (Big Gray wire sheilded) and grounded
L/B - Service light
L/R - Coil trailing
B/R - Shift light
B/L - Split air solinoid valve
G/B - Nutral switch
L/O - Fan relay
BR/Y - Air bypass
Y/B - Check conector
Lower bank
L/Y - Coil ignitor trailing
G/Y - Coil ignitor leading
R - 2nd Crank sensor
LG - Knock controll
L - 3rd Crank sensor
G - 4th Crank sensor
Y/L - Clutch switch
O - Check conector
BR - Water temp
L/W - Air con main relay
Y - Check conector
Y/R - Check conector
Look at the plug as it were pluged in the ECU.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| B/Y | BR/Y| BR/R| W | L/B | L/R | B/R | B/L | G/B | L/O | BR/Y| Y/B |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| L/Y | G/Y | R | LG | L | G | Y/L | O | BR | L/W | Y | Y/R |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Upper bank from left to right
B/Y - Hazard Heat swith
BR/Y - Trailing coil ignitor
BR/R - Port air solinoid valve
W - 1st Crank sensor,These 4 wires are (Big Gray wire sheilded) and grounded
L/B - Service light
L/R - Coil trailing
B/R - Shift light
B/L - Split air solinoid valve
G/B - Nutral switch
L/O - Fan relay
BR/Y - Air bypass
Y/B - Check conector
Lower bank
L/Y - Coil ignitor trailing
G/Y - Coil ignitor leading
R - 2nd Crank sensor
LG - Knock controll
L - 3rd Crank sensor
G - 4th Crank sensor
Y/L - Clutch switch
O - Check conector
BR - Water temp
L/W - Air con main relay
Y - Check conector
Y/R - Check conector
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