Smog Fighter

Ok,



First, to RacerX, sorry for mucking up your thead on clutch problems with

timing questions.



Now for the info.



This is for setting the TOTAL advance @4000+RPM (NOT idle)



Tools used: 1/4" drive ratchet with 12" extension and a 10MM socket.

(my weapon of choice for loosening and tightening the distributer bolt)



#2 phillips screwdriver with a 14" long shaft

(weapon of choice for loosening and tightening trailing advance screws)

(you can't bash your knuckles if your knuckles aren't near anything)



Inductive timing light with advance

(it's too much work for me to measure out all the degrees onto a

piece of tape then align the zero's then apply the tape to the pulley

then file marks representing the degrees hoping I don't screw up the

pulley)



My favorite throttle stick

(a friend will work just as well)



A word of caution: (To keep people from trying to sue me for them not being able to

follow directions!)

THE WANKLE MOTOR ACTS LIKE A 2 STROKE MOTOR AS FAR AS IGNITION!

Meaning that evry time the 0 mark on the pulley comes up to the pointer, the

ignition fires.

So if your timing light DOESN'T have a 2 stroke option, then the setting values are

cut in half.



We will assume that you are using a light without the 2 stroke option.

For more info on how a distributer works, YAW POWER has an excellent article here:



http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/pultime.html



Read it now!



I hope that site never goes away



Now that all that B.S. is out of the way, we can start and warm up our engines.



Read the above article for recommended total advance.



Install timing light per Mfgr's instructions.

(#1 leading plug)

Set advance dial to 1/2 desired advance.

Have trusted assistant hold rpm @ 4000.

Check the timing against your 0 mark on pulley, it shouldn't be very far off.

Loosen distributer and turn to align 0 mark and pointer.

Tighten distributer.



You've just set the leading timing! Congratulations!



Give trusted helpers foot a rest while you move timing light to #1 trailing plug wire

per Mfgr's instructions.



Re-adjust advance dial to 1/2 your trailing spec.

Have trusted assistant hold rpm @ 4000.

Check the timing against your 0 (yes 0!) mark.

Loosen the two set screws for the trailing advance vacuum pod.

pull out on the vacuum pod to advance.

Tighten screws.

Re-check timing against 0 (yes 0!) mark.

Re-adjust as necessary to get it aligned.

Be patient.

Try again.



There you go, you've just set your trailing advance!



You will hear a difference when you set the trailing advance.



Tell trusted assistant to "beat it" and remove timing light.

Go for a ride!



Enjoy.



After I set my timing I rechecked my Idle settings.

I found that I am 2` advanced leading and 6`retarded trailing.

Your results may vary based on the operation of the mechanical

and vacuum advance systems in your distributer.

Racer X

Don't sweat it about my thread I don't mind.Good info you posted :bigok: Moderators: Could you guys move this to the FAQ section and Pin it?



Thanks

Luis

j9fd3s

2 things. you might want to disconnect the vacuum advances to set the timing @4k, and i notice my gsl-se is a lot more responsive with paul yaw's 8 degree split, i didnt change the factory timing except to reduce the split.



mike

Racer X

Yeah,I heard that if the vaccum is hooked up it makes it different by a few degrees.I think OEM is good but if your motor is modified you better play with the timing a bit.

Smog Fighter

I had noticed a difference in sound when I timed it, then when I drove it afterwards

I noticed my clutch slipping where it wasn't before. so I guess I have more power

Racer X

Now theres a bonus.

Smog Fighter

Now theres a bonus. [/quote]

Until I realized that after 5 minutes of playing with my car I now need

to spend $250-300 on a clutch. Plus the time to install it

Racer X

Now theres a bonus. [/quote]

Until I realized that after 5 minutes of playing with my car I now need

to spend $250-300 on a clutch. Plus the time to install it [/quote]

Take it from me.I have first hand experience in this part.The clutch swap is easy just make sure that it will bleed afterwards. :rant:

Smog Fighter

:rant:

Jeff20B

j9fd3s, you're using 12A split on a 13B :redface: (unless it's better than the 10º he recommends for 13Bs). I'm gonna try switching my Trailing ignition off while driving under various loads and conditions to see if I lose any power. I'm running DLIDFIS with a carb here.