Auxiliary Ports
10-05-2003, 01:13 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33
One of my recently acquired GSL-SEs was being put into a 'race' configuration by a prior owner. Apparently, as part of this, they removed the auxiliary port actuators.
Today, I found some in a salvage yard and bought them. Although I stupidly did not bother to take the intake further apart and get the auxiliary port valves (I haven't checked whether they were removed - probably not), I have some questions about what I am about to do.
In talking to a tech at Mazdatrix briefly about another matter, he implied they might have removed them mistakenly thinking they were part of the emissions control and/or thought removing them would increase HP
I assume the idea is that ports 5 & 6 provide additional air into the engine at high load/revs, thereby improving upper band performance (letting it breathe more). Is that correct? The FSM does not explain the operation of the actuators - are they controlled via vacuum? Does the ECU cause the vacuum to be routed to the actuator?
If so, I have some additional questions:
1) why would somebody remove the actuators?
2) Wouldn't simply removing them have caused a leak in either the vacuum system or the intake system?
3) since they provide a known state (open or closed), wouldn't removing them lead to the possibility they were in different or wrong position (closed at high speed or open at low speed)?
4) I intend to put them back on, is this a good idea, or should I do something else? Is there something I can do here to improve performance beyond stock, or should I just replace them?
5) They had gaskets, where can I get them, or would it be alright to use Permatex Ultra Blue or a similar silicon based gasket caulk?
Thanks,
Brian
Today, I found some in a salvage yard and bought them. Although I stupidly did not bother to take the intake further apart and get the auxiliary port valves (I haven't checked whether they were removed - probably not), I have some questions about what I am about to do.
In talking to a tech at Mazdatrix briefly about another matter, he implied they might have removed them mistakenly thinking they were part of the emissions control and/or thought removing them would increase HP
I assume the idea is that ports 5 & 6 provide additional air into the engine at high load/revs, thereby improving upper band performance (letting it breathe more). Is that correct? The FSM does not explain the operation of the actuators - are they controlled via vacuum? Does the ECU cause the vacuum to be routed to the actuator?
If so, I have some additional questions:
1) why would somebody remove the actuators?
2) Wouldn't simply removing them have caused a leak in either the vacuum system or the intake system?
3) since they provide a known state (open or closed), wouldn't removing them lead to the possibility they were in different or wrong position (closed at high speed or open at low speed)?
4) I intend to put them back on, is this a good idea, or should I do something else? Is there something I can do here to improve performance beyond stock, or should I just replace them?
5) They had gaskets, where can I get them, or would it be alright to use Permatex Ultra Blue or a similar silicon based gasket caulk?
Thanks,
Brian
10-05-2003, 10:49 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
1) cause they really didnt like all that low rpm power and wanted to get rid of it
2)it could be an exhaust leak
3)yes, if the guys who had your car before you were as smart as they sound i would bet they have it in the wrong place
4)yes put em back on
5)either buy em from mazda or goop em, but make sure not to fill the holes
mike
2)it could be an exhaust leak
3)yes, if the guys who had your car before you were as smart as they sound i would bet they have it in the wrong place
4)yes put em back on
5)either buy em from mazda or goop em, but make sure not to fill the holes
mike
10-05-2003, 09:36 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 49
If you dont care about low end, then you don't need them. You can wire the ports open if you don't want to bother with the actuators. Or you can completely remove the sleeves, which will give you less low end, but gain you a few HP in the top end.
10-06-2003, 12:05 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33
Short of removing the piece the actuators connect to, is there anyway I can tell if the sleeves are still in there?
I intend to put the actuators back on, but I want to make sure they didn't remove the sleeves. If they did, I need to drive 4 hours back to the salvage yard with the SE to recover the rest of it.
Thanks,
BTC
I intend to put the actuators back on, but I want to make sure they didn't remove the sleeves. If they did, I need to drive 4 hours back to the salvage yard with the SE to recover the rest of it.
Thanks,
BTC
10-06-2003, 11:11 AM
#5
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by TexasGunRunner' date='Oct 5 2003, 09:05 PM
Short of removing the piece the actuators connect to, is there anyway I can tell if the sleeves are still in there?
I intend to put the actuators back on, but I want to make sure they didn't remove the sleeves. If they did, I need to drive 4 hours back to the salvage yard with the SE to recover the rest of it.
Thanks,
BTC
I intend to put the actuators back on, but I want to make sure they didn't remove the sleeves. If they did, I need to drive 4 hours back to the salvage yard with the SE to recover the rest of it.
Thanks,
BTC
mike
10-09-2003, 07:03 PM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 17
hi I've been reading this post and wanted to tack on a related question, has anyone explain the method of running the actuators off the air pump? I am missing the split air pipe and everything that goes with it. My actuators work by applying compressed air, so hopefully i can get things hooked up and working again.
10-09-2003, 08:36 PM
#7
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by kennedy' date='Oct 9 2003, 04:03 PM
hi I've been reading this post and wanted to tack on a related question, has anyone explain the method of running the actuators off the air pump? I am missing the split air pipe and everything that goes with it. My actuators work by applying compressed air, so hopefully i can get things hooked up and working again.
mike
10-09-2003, 09:26 PM
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 17
so if i just cut into the air supply tube and spliced in a metal pipe with a nipple welded to it and had maybe a on/off valve partially opened to regulate pressure, this would work? Sounds easy enuf, if I can just find a valve...
10-10-2003, 10:02 AM
#9
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by kennedy' date='Oct 9 2003, 06:26 PM
so if i just cut into the air supply tube and spliced in a metal pipe with a nipple welded to it and had maybe a on/off valve partially opened to regulate pressure, this would work? Sounds easy enuf, if I can just find a valve...
mike
10-13-2003, 06:52 PM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 33
Why would the air pump be better than the split air off the backpressure pipe? Just because it is cleaner? Does the increase in air pressure from the air pump match the air pressure curve from the exhaust?
My understanding was that it needs to be around 6 psi at full open, but that you start opening below that around 3800 rpm.
I am actually working on all that tonight (replacing cat, backpressure tube, etc.)...we'll see if it works when I am done. I also have to remount the actuators.
Thanks,
BTC
My understanding was that it needs to be around 6 psi at full open, but that you start opening below that around 3800 rpm.
I am actually working on all that tonight (replacing cat, backpressure tube, etc.)...we'll see if it works when I am done. I also have to remount the actuators.
Thanks,
BTC