85' gsl-se rebuild
#1
First off I just wanted to say hi, I'm new around here but you'll probably being hearing more from me. Anyway I just got a cherry 85' Gsl-se for next to nothing,no rust, decent paint, good interior. Of course though it has a blown apex seal. I'm looking to rebuild it soon and I was wondering what all is usually changed. I've different rebuild kits from kits with just apex seals to $1000 master kits. I'm no stranger to rebuilding engines, but the wankel is a little new to me! I'm that there are bearings on the eccentric shaft, and oil and coolant seals on the housings but what else do I need?
#2
well unlike a piston engine, where a rebuild is usually all the bearings, rings, pistons, seals gaskets etc.
a rotary is usually torn down and the parts that are worn are changed only.
gsl-se is a perfect example, usually they look really good inside, so you dont have to change bearings.
if it lost an apex seal, it needs a rotor housing, all the apex seals, and probably a rotor, at least. you should change both rotor housings, as they are wear parts.
a rotary is usually torn down and the parts that are worn are changed only.
gsl-se is a perfect example, usually they look really good inside, so you dont have to change bearings.
if it lost an apex seal, it needs a rotor housing, all the apex seals, and probably a rotor, at least. you should change both rotor housings, as they are wear parts.
#3
So it would need new rotor housings? that sucks, I was kinda counting on that anyway due to the miles. so basically with new housings and a rebuild I might as well save up for a reman? I was planing on doing the work myself and just learn and rebuild it, but if rebuild kits are $800-ish, once you add housings i might as well buy a reman. I'm really new to the ole' wankel, but I'm nt convinced that it is necessarily an apex seal, they haven't done a compression test (because it seems that you need a tester that goes in both leading and trailing plug holes) and it wont start at all. It would seem to me that if one rotor had a bad seal that it would still run, albeit shitty, on the one rotor. we'll see
#4
Originally Posted by josh...just josh' post='849845' date='Dec 21 2006, 04:32 PM
So it would need new rotor housings? that sucks, I was kinda counting on that anyway due to the miles. so basically with new housings and a rebuild I might as well save up for a reman? I was planing on doing the work myself and just learn and rebuild it, but if rebuild kits are $800-ish, once you add housings i might as well buy a reman. I'm really new to the ole' wankel, but I'm nt convinced that it is necessarily an apex seal, they haven't done a compression test (because it seems that you need a tester that goes in both leading and trailing plug holes) and it wont start at all. It would seem to me that if one rotor had a bad seal that it would still run, albeit shitty, on the one rotor. we'll see
they usually run, but can be really hard to start
#6
Originally Posted by bigboi12A' post='850224' date='Dec 25 2006, 12:09 PM
I Also have an se my self. I dont think I would go reman. Especially from mazda; one there expensive, and besides stock is no fun. Go with a street port or a half bridge, mutch more fun!!
#7
I don't know about all that, one of my close friends has a half bridge 12a. He drove it every day for 5 years beating the **** out of it and I'll bet he did more than 40k. I beleve they were atkins seals, plus I guess it depends on who builds the motor, kilo racing. loose the efi go carb, do some smart shopping pick up some used components tune it well it would run great. Guess it all comes down to what u like,, I do agree that turbo would be sweet. Gonna have to check that link..
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