sleeper7

Fuel system 900$ http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html

SDS has its draw backs but was very simple to install and tune. No ignition, fuel only. I liked the 1st gen dizzy ignition for simplicity. CONs- no dataloging, primary and secondary injectors have to be the same size, fuel only. PROs- price, easy to install and fuel only. (Currently running 4 1000cc injectors with good idle.) http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=41 Stock turboII fuel rails and FPR.



Injectors 45$ for 6 x 680cc injectors from pick-n-pull. SDS ran 4 injectors and an AIC ran two sub injectors. Reason for using an AIC, SDS can only control four injectors of the same size and the 680s were what I could afford and already had an AIC. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=82 Also built my own UIM using a 3” t-body from a GM product. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=83 Used a S4 N/A fuel rail and FPR for the sub injectors.

http://www.sdsefi.com/techinta.htm Instructions on building your own UIM.



External fuel pump 250$ for two pumps. AirTex E8248 Rated at 60-70 per hour at 40 psi. Max working pressure is 125 psi. http://home.earthlink.net/~jopeterson/CFI-EFI.html https://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/mfr,NGK (currently running 4x1000cc injectors off one pump, no pressure loss at 1.5 bar of boost.) Made my own fuel surge tank, http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=96 with two external fuel pumps with there own stock FPRs. One pump for the SDS operated injectors and one pump for the two sub injectors. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...oto&PhotoID=500





Turbocharger 700$ T3 .82 A/R stage III wheel .70 A/R 60mm inducer. http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gart3w82artu.html No turbo lag!

Was told this turbo was too small for a rotary. For anything over 400rwhp, yes, but for me it was perfect. 11.7et at 122mph at 19-22psi everyday all day with the S4 N/A motor. (I think 300-325rwhp is manageable/reliable at 15 psi with a good front mount intercooler.) Wanted more power so I later upgrade to a T66 because I felt I reached the max power out put of the T-3 60-1. Also went with lower compression rotor (should of stayed with the 9.4 rotors.) and a ported motor with the T-66 .96 A/R p-trim.



Motor 500$ 86 N/A with 9.4 rotors. Bought two motors from pick-n-pull to make one good motor. With Atkins apex seals. http://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/cu...me.php?cat=603 Port matched the turboII LIM to the N/A motor. Used a gsl-se front cover, oil pan and oil pick up tube. My turbo oil return went to the oil pan. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...oto&PhotoID=164

Cut an oil pick up tube. Turbo feed line was -4 with a restrictor to limit oil volume. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=84

sleeper7

Intercooler 250$ I made my own water/air intercooler. Used a 12 volt water pump and cooler mounted in the back to keep the water cold. The intercooler held 4 gallons of water, the cooler box held 15 lbs of ice. Intercooler core measured 13x9x3.5. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...oto&PhotoID=161

30$ for used intercooler (pick-n-pull), 100$ to have end tanks made, 80$ water pump. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/sto...uctId=527&R=527



Intercooler pipe, clamps and hoses 100$ http://search.ebay.com/Intercooler_W0QQsoc...osortpropertyZ1 http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product.../p-8837/c-10101



Clutch and drive train 60$ http://www.capclutch.com/cabrera/rx73.html

I used their 4 puck unsprung 13b non turbo disc with a very old racing beat 12a heavy duty pressure plate I had. It did slip at times. Used a S4 N/A flywheel with both N/A and turbo motors so I could run the 1st gen transmission. 1st gen transmission held up very good. Dynode the N/A motor at 400wrhp and never had a problem with the stock 1st gen transmission or rear end. (Maybe I drive like a old man) http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...oto&PhotoID=104

I strongly feel the 1st gen gsl-se drive train is very strong. I was easy launching at the line and always shifted at or before 7500 RPMs. No clutch kicking the rear end around or crazy driving for me. The SA drive train did brake a few times after upgrading to the T-66 and ported motor. Estimated rwhp was 450. (128mph ¼ mile) Transmission broke twice in 3rd gear at or above 6000 RPMs. Broke one axle launching at 6000 rpms and dumping the clutch. Normal launch was at 4000-4500 rpms, half dumping, half slipping the clutch. Best 60 foot time was 1.86 at an IRDC event. This is when the N/A motor, T3 turbo went 11.7 ET.



Exhaust manifold 100$ http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=16212 http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/t3turinflan.html Made my own. Also used McMaster/Carr for some of the piping. Page 308 of there catalog. http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage...lip&ToolsetAct= Steel Butt-weld. http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=68





Blow off valve 50$ bought a used old school HKS one. http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/viewproduc...ff_Valves~.html

sleeper7

Boost controller 135$ Apex boost solenoid controlled by a Hobbs pressure switch. http://www.kipanderson.net/rs/hobbs.htm Bought my Hobbs switch from Napa.



Waste gate 230$ http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/tial35hpwas1.html



Down pipe and exhaust 150$ made my own. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product.../p-8837/c-10101 http://groups.msn.com/ChucksRX7/1983rx7.ms...hoto&PhotoID=99



Tires and suspension

Stock GSL-SE suspension. BFG drag radials. 225/50/15 on 7jj wheels. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/f...&tp=Competition Best 60 foot time was 1.86. Average time was 1.95-2.05



Ignition 320$ Two Mallory HI boxes with two MSD blaster coils. 12a distributor. Not locked. Set my total advance at 4000 rpms and were ever the times ended up at idle was what I dealt with. (-8 to -4 deg leading) NGK plug wires, BUR9EQ plugs. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...ry+ignition+box Paid 119$ with out rev limiters. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?...d+coil&x=22&y=8 One coil for leading and one for trailing.





Odds and ends

Relays for, fuel pumps, cooling fans, gauges and fuel computer, injectors, ignition.

Auxiliary fuse box. Electrical wire and butt connectors.

Gauges, EGT Boost AFR Shift light Fuel pressure

Cooling fans, two 10 inch fans from AutoZone.



Tools

Precipitating Saw, Hole saw, 4 ½” grinder, Drill, Digital volt/ohm Meter,



Welder 300$ for the welder. 100$ for tank and gas. 100$ for gauges. http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod...sterid=3180138/ Bought mine from Home Depot. Welded my exhaust manifold, intercooler piping and exhaust with this welder. Welder paid for it’s self with this one project.



This is just to give you a idea of what is involved when going turbo. Right or wrong, just what I did.

chuck

Dysfnctnl85

I WISH mine was that cheap.

setzep

Thanks for posting all the info, I wish I had the energy to do so!



I like the surge tank, wish I had done the same from the get-go. I have a float switch I was going to put in the tank to light up a bright red light or buzzer if the level ever got low in the tank.

Dysfnctnl85

Mind shedding some light on the signficance of this? I've done nothing with the fuel tank and I'm just wondering if I should do this or not...

sleeper7

http://www.sdsefi.com/techsurge.htm



Dy

was your car a gsl-se? if it is then you are "OK". Your tank is already set up with the large fuel line to a external fuel pump. If your car was carb, then your tank has to be modified with bigger fuel line to your fuel pump. If I remember right Setzep or Directfreak did a right up on this conversion.

chuck

phinsup

I think I will move this to the FAQ, thanks for the info.