Is The Right Oil Pan?
12-17-2004, 08:01 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
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Originally Posted by Eric Happy Meal' date='Dec 17 2004, 05:07 PM
well for the REPU, unless i read it wrong, the oil pan on the repu has a different sump on it. and one for an FC (like what i have) doesnt work since the sump goes down too far.
Unless it's a clearance issue I don't see why it would matter.
12-18-2004, 02:24 AM
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Well, I know it matters. 
I'm in the middle of messing with a T2 engine for a friend's REPU swap. The T2 pan would never fit an REPU. Eric, the pan in the picture is the early '74-'78 style that has the funky gasket surface, no paint on the inside (watch out for rust), a short brass temp sensor thingie, and a drain plug angle that tends to pee oil onto the crossmember.
Both my trucks have this early style of pan.
There is a better pan out there, but it is only found on the rare nitrided R5 13B. This pan is painted inside and out, has a flat gasket surface like all RX-7s, has an Hitachi brand long tubular temp sensor, and the angle of the drain plug is better in that it prevents oil from pissing all over your crossmember at the expense of like one or two ounces of total oil capacity.
My 13B MG Midget project has one of these pans because I needed as much clearance as possible. I even ground down the rolled-over lip to clear the frame rail. It seemed to do the trick as I no longer hear a clunk when I get on it. You'll need to copy and paste or drag and drop to see these pics.
http://www.geocities.com/cd23c02/mg04.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/cd23c02/mg06.jpg
Those pics were when I dropped in an empty core. The added weight of the rotors etc lowered the engine even further. Good thing grinding the lip helped. Even a GSL-SE pan has a couple sections with a missing lip.
Eric, that pan should fit just fine as long as your engine is in the stock location. I oughta know; I used an R5 pan in my 20B project and it fits fine because the front of the engine is in the stock location. Everything behind the pan is simply a flat sheet of metal and it clears the centerlink fine.
I'm in the middle of messing with a T2 engine for a friend's REPU swap. The T2 pan would never fit an REPU. Eric, the pan in the picture is the early '74-'78 style that has the funky gasket surface, no paint on the inside (watch out for rust), a short brass temp sensor thingie, and a drain plug angle that tends to pee oil onto the crossmember.
Both my trucks have this early style of pan.
There is a better pan out there, but it is only found on the rare nitrided R5 13B. This pan is painted inside and out, has a flat gasket surface like all RX-7s, has an Hitachi brand long tubular temp sensor, and the angle of the drain plug is better in that it prevents oil from pissing all over your crossmember at the expense of like one or two ounces of total oil capacity.
My 13B MG Midget project has one of these pans because I needed as much clearance as possible. I even ground down the rolled-over lip to clear the frame rail. It seemed to do the trick as I no longer hear a clunk when I get on it. You'll need to copy and paste or drag and drop to see these pics.
http://www.geocities.com/cd23c02/mg04.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/cd23c02/mg06.jpg
Those pics were when I dropped in an empty core. The added weight of the rotors etc lowered the engine even further. Good thing grinding the lip helped. Even a GSL-SE pan has a couple sections with a missing lip.
Eric, that pan should fit just fine as long as your engine is in the stock location. I oughta know; I used an R5 pan in my 20B project and it fits fine because the front of the engine is in the stock location. Everything behind the pan is simply a flat sheet of metal and it clears the centerlink fine.
12-18-2004, 07:23 AM
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: La Plata, Maryland
Posts: 9,725
That sounds like a clearance issue to me. Eric, how far along are you? I had though the engine was already in place. Hey Jeff, Im not going to be mouting the engine in the stock position so it doesn't really pertain to my project but do you know if anyone has tried out the aftermarket pan that pineapple is selling? There was a second company making one I read about somewhere also. Thoughts?
12-18-2004, 01:15 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: redondo beach
Posts: 983
Thanks for the info Jeff.
And Dave, right now the engine is just sitting there in the engine bay. Im trying to find someone near me who has an engine puller/stand i could use. Once i find someone i can get the engine pulled out of there, i can mount the crossmember, put on the different front cover, and then finally get it mounted. Im not sure if i have the tranny mounts in there though.(im away from the truck right now) Anyone have any extra ones?
And Dave, right now the engine is just sitting there in the engine bay. Im trying to find someone near me who has an engine puller/stand i could use. Once i find someone i can get the engine pulled out of there, i can mount the crossmember, put on the different front cover, and then finally get it mounted. Im not sure if i have the tranny mounts in there though.(im away from the truck right now) Anyone have any extra ones?
12-18-2004, 01:27 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: redondo beach
Posts: 983
Here's what else came with it, plus the radiator i bought. (any suggestions on what to use for mounting brackets?)
oh yeah, does anyone have a spare set of the brackets that mount on to the front cover?
oh yeah, does anyone have a spare set of the brackets that mount on to the front cover?
12-18-2004, 05:16 PM
#10
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Originally Posted by Fd3BOOST' date='Dec 18 2004, 02:58 PM
Jeff mentioned watching out for rust in the oil pan. Maybe you should coat the inside with something before assembly.
well 2 things. rust is bad, but the oil will keep it from rusting and 2 if you paint it it cant peel