Tip On Installing Energy Suspension Bushings
07-18-2003, 12:00 PM
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 5,425
Originally Posted by Jerk_Racer' date='Jul 18 2003, 12:48 PM
A Dremel? Hellz no. You'll just gum it up with the rubber. Just set the bushing in the control arms on fire and they pop out. The metal doesn't even get too hot for too long if metal fatigue is a worry.
I suggest that everybody do their bushings. You don't know how crummy the old ones really were until you put the new ones in. The cost isn't in the parts. It's in the labor that some people pay. Do it yourself and use that extra money you saved to SuperSize your next meal.
I suggest that everybody do their bushings. You don't know how crummy the old ones really were until you put the new ones in. The cost isn't in the parts. It's in the labor that some people pay. Do it yourself and use that extra money you saved to SuperSize your next meal.
And for a torch (which I've never used), is one of those small propane things ok?
07-29-2003, 12:57 PM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 643
HOW-TO
Changing the front bushings.
1. Lift the car on jack stands by being sure you're not using the control arms as jacking points (you'll need to remove them).
2. Take the wheels off.
3. Take the strut assembly off (be carefull not to mees with the center bolt). This include removing the 2 lower bolts and the 4 upper nuts. (For newbies). Put it away until reassembling.
4. Now, you need to remove the nut holding the tie-rod to the hubs. To do this, first remove the cotter pin (you might need to drill through it if its rusted out). Using an impact gun and a 17mm socket, remove the nut. I dont see how else you can remove this nut, but there might be another way.
5. Remove the sway bar end-links.
6. Remove the ball-joint bracket from the control arm by removing 2 nuts (2 out of 4 broke for me, so have some spares in case. Part # will be listed at the end of the thread). BE CAREFUL to check how the end-link bracket in positioned in order to put it back correctly). In order to be able to work safely, I attached the hub up in the strut tower.
7. Now, the fun begins. The 2 bolts at the rear of the c-arm are pretty easy to remove with an impact gun or whatever used. The problem is that they were bent when removed, maybe because of the pressure the rubber bushing was exercing. To do this, alternate while removing the bolts by turning 4-5 turns one bolt and then doing the other. Thats why I chose to order new bolts before doing this.
8. The front bolt is the hardest to remove. In my case, it was stuck inside the bushing so I had to heat the bolt and tap it out the hole with a hammer. It might not work for you but is worth a shot.
9. Now, find a friend who has an hydraulic press and likes beer. The bushings that are inserted are the easiest to remove, the other ones required some sort adapter that would slide between the bushing and the c-arm holding only the bushing on the press while pressing the c-arm out. If all hell breaks loose, you can grind the bushing carefully, this **** stinks btw. (WARNING: This might get you high. Proceed with caution).
10. Pressing the new bushings in are easy and was done using bare hands and a hammer. Use all the grease supplied.
11. The sway bar bushings are straight forward. Remove the bolts, put the new bushings (brakets included) and you're free to go.
Installation is the reverse of removal...
C-Arm to Ball Joint Bracket Bolt Part #: FB01-34-099A x4
Nut Part #: B001-34-091 x4
Rear instructions will come soon
Changing the front bushings.
1. Lift the car on jack stands by being sure you're not using the control arms as jacking points (you'll need to remove them).
2. Take the wheels off.
3. Take the strut assembly off (be carefull not to mees with the center bolt). This include removing the 2 lower bolts and the 4 upper nuts. (For newbies). Put it away until reassembling.
4. Now, you need to remove the nut holding the tie-rod to the hubs. To do this, first remove the cotter pin (you might need to drill through it if its rusted out). Using an impact gun and a 17mm socket, remove the nut. I dont see how else you can remove this nut, but there might be another way.
5. Remove the sway bar end-links.
6. Remove the ball-joint bracket from the control arm by removing 2 nuts (2 out of 4 broke for me, so have some spares in case. Part # will be listed at the end of the thread). BE CAREFUL to check how the end-link bracket in positioned in order to put it back correctly). In order to be able to work safely, I attached the hub up in the strut tower.
7. Now, the fun begins. The 2 bolts at the rear of the c-arm are pretty easy to remove with an impact gun or whatever used. The problem is that they were bent when removed, maybe because of the pressure the rubber bushing was exercing. To do this, alternate while removing the bolts by turning 4-5 turns one bolt and then doing the other. Thats why I chose to order new bolts before doing this.
8. The front bolt is the hardest to remove. In my case, it was stuck inside the bushing so I had to heat the bolt and tap it out the hole with a hammer. It might not work for you but is worth a shot.
9. Now, find a friend who has an hydraulic press and likes beer. The bushings that are inserted are the easiest to remove, the other ones required some sort adapter that would slide between the bushing and the c-arm holding only the bushing on the press while pressing the c-arm out. If all hell breaks loose, you can grind the bushing carefully, this **** stinks btw. (WARNING: This might get you high. Proceed with caution).
10. Pressing the new bushings in are easy and was done using bare hands and a hammer. Use all the grease supplied.
11. The sway bar bushings are straight forward. Remove the bolts, put the new bushings (brakets included) and you're free to go.
Installation is the reverse of removal...
C-Arm to Ball Joint Bracket Bolt Part #: FB01-34-099A x4
Nut Part #: B001-34-091 x4
Rear instructions will come soon
02-23-2004, 12:35 PM
#16
Super Moderator
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Posts: 5,425
Just a tip here, I called the dealership and had them punch in all those part numbers. The total was over $100 just for the nuts/bolts/washers. Yikes! I'm going to find out exactly what I need as I go along, and just try to find replacement hardened bolts from several locations. The parts lady gave me several options, one being an industrial equipment supply place (caterpillar).
05-10-2006, 06:07 AM
#19
Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Posts: 87
01-14-2007, 04:28 PM
#20
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 9
sorry to ressurrect this thread, but im wondering if anyone has had any trouble reinstalling the rear bushing on the front control arm?
i have the energy suspensin kit, an the end links and the rest have been no problem, but i cant get the large rear bushings to fit properly, it appears there is about a 16th of an inch gap between the bushing and the collar on the control arm, and even if i get that 16th im looking at nearly a quarter inch difference between the bracket holding the bushing and the holes it bolts up to under my car. ive tried all in my power to push them on further but have had no success. anyone else had similar?
i have the energy suspensin kit, an the end links and the rest have been no problem, but i cant get the large rear bushings to fit properly, it appears there is about a 16th of an inch gap between the bushing and the collar on the control arm, and even if i get that 16th im looking at nearly a quarter inch difference between the bracket holding the bushing and the holes it bolts up to under my car. ive tried all in my power to push them on further but have had no success. anyone else had similar?
