The Secrets Of Good Traction
#1
Guys, I am having some trouble with traction off the line. What are basics I am using road legal semi slicks, should they be let down at all to say 15psi, should I make the suspension soft all round?
Hey Dragon How do you get so much traction? After all you have just gone for a 20b! I find traction a problem with a side ported 13brew with a TO4S!
What are the secrets of traction? Why does fitting a cage and stiffening up the car with braces increase traction?
Hey Dragon How do you get so much traction? After all you have just gone for a 20b! I find traction a problem with a side ported 13brew with a TO4S!
What are the secrets of traction? Why does fitting a cage and stiffening up the car with braces increase traction?
#2
Me and Dragon have basically the same drag suspension setup, except I have a cusco diff and he had a Kaaz diff. We both run 4.777 final gear, have k2RD TA/TL, MazdaSpeed PPF, Tranny brace, Nitto 555R drag 275/40 or BFG Comp T/A's, and the secret sauce....HKS Hiper D DRAG suspension with 3(or is it 4?) kilo springs. The HKS suspension is SUPER soft....
#4
Well, you can't have your cake and eat it too. The drag suspension is bad ***, but it's not the best for "circuit" racing. You can stiffen it up a bit, but it's still softer than most fully adjustable's out there.
Not final drive...Final Gear. It's the gearing in the back where the differential is. 3.90 final gear is automatic(4 speed) and stock FD is 4.10(5 speed). They had some 4.3 Final gears with the RZ rx7 I think. We've got the 4.7 final gear from RE Amemiya. Basically, it allows for faster acceleration by lowering the top speed of the car. Also puts more strain on the drive axles.
Not final drive...Final Gear. It's the gearing in the back where the differential is. 3.90 final gear is automatic(4 speed) and stock FD is 4.10(5 speed). They had some 4.3 Final gears with the RZ rx7 I think. We've got the 4.7 final gear from RE Amemiya. Basically, it allows for faster acceleration by lowering the top speed of the car. Also puts more strain on the drive axles.
#5
If you're looking to go fast round corners you'll need something other than the drag suspension.
By using aftermarket coilovers (small spring diameter) it is possible to fit 285/30/18 tires all around on 10" wide wheels, if you choose the right offset.
Japanese Makers offering bolt-in coilovers:
JIC Magic
HKS
Apex'i
TEIN
American / European coilover makers of much higher standard. Add springs of your choice:
Penske
Ohlins
Moton
Wheel makers that can provide 18 X 10 50mm offset required:
Volk Gram Light 57Pro
Complete Custom Wheel
Fikse
Forgeline
'R' compound tires in 285/30/18:
Competition Tire Rack
Trick anti-roll bars and other suspension upgrades:
Tri-Point Engineering
Rotary Extreme
When $12,000 falls in my lap I plan to go shopping!
By using aftermarket coilovers (small spring diameter) it is possible to fit 285/30/18 tires all around on 10" wide wheels, if you choose the right offset.
Japanese Makers offering bolt-in coilovers:
JIC Magic
HKS
Apex'i
TEIN
American / European coilover makers of much higher standard. Add springs of your choice:
Penske
Ohlins
Moton
Wheel makers that can provide 18 X 10 50mm offset required:
Volk Gram Light 57Pro
Complete Custom Wheel
Fikse
Forgeline
'R' compound tires in 285/30/18:
Competition Tire Rack
Trick anti-roll bars and other suspension upgrades:
Tri-Point Engineering
Rotary Extreme
When $12,000 falls in my lap I plan to go shopping!
#7
I can't give specific info about your tires, but generally the pressures are lower for drag.
I've also been told that if you have double adjustable (compression and rebound) shocks, then you want to decrease to compression in the rear and decrease the rebound in the front. This will aid in load transfer to the rear.
A stiffer chassis helps traction by evening out the loads to the back tires. If your chassis is soft and twisting at the launch then it's putting more load on one side than the other... How much more depends on how bad your chassis flex is.
Good luck
I've also been told that if you have double adjustable (compression and rebound) shocks, then you want to decrease to compression in the rear and decrease the rebound in the front. This will aid in load transfer to the rear.
A stiffer chassis helps traction by evening out the loads to the back tires. If your chassis is soft and twisting at the launch then it's putting more load on one side than the other... How much more depends on how bad your chassis flex is.
Good luck
#8
I found a place in the U.S that stock's the magical HKS Drag coilover's. I don't need to tell you how good these thing's are, a couple people on this forum have them, and can attest to what they can do.
They are pricey at $2,100. Rotary Xecret 7
They are pricey at $2,100. Rotary Xecret 7
#9
Guys can you tell me a little more about howe they actually work? I realise they transfere the wieght to back of the car. Should they be set high at the front and low at the rear.
Also I have two different sets of wheels, which would you recommend for a drag event I am attending.
1. 17" 235 semi slicks
2 16" 225 road tyres
Would the 16s be better because I can lower the pressure and get a better contact patch?
Also I have two different sets of wheels, which would you recommend for a drag event I am attending.
1. 17" 235 semi slicks
2 16" 225 road tyres
Would the 16s be better because I can lower the pressure and get a better contact patch?
#10
Originally Posted by jspecracer7' date='Sep 30 2003, 05:22 AM
Well, you can't have your cake and eat it too. The drag suspension is bad ***, but it's not the best for "circuit" racing. You can stiffen it up a bit, but it's still softer than most fully adjustable's out there.
I am planning on purchasing TEIN's flex system. It offers 16 point adjustability and with the optional controller you can adjust settings 32 different ways from inside the car. Ill have a smooth ride to the track and can stiffen it for the corners or let em out for the strip. (all from in the car)