Negative Offset For Fd
03-29-2004, 10:03 PM
#2
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Changing the offset by more than 2" has got to make even the stock wheels hit the fenders. Never mind screwing your suspension geometry.
Can you be a little more specific about what your talking about?
Can you be a little more specific about what your talking about?
03-29-2004, 10:32 PM
#4
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Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Mar 29 2004, 11:03 PM
Changing the offset by more than 2" has got to make even the stock wheels hit the fenders. Never mind screwing your suspension geometry.
Can you be a little more specific about what your talking about?
Can you be a little more specific about what your talking about?
What I'm talking about is deep dish rims with big lips. You see, even with a 50+ offset and 10 inch width the lip is still gonna be like 3 inches, plus, the wheel will be deep on the lip, but stuck outward in the center. That's something I don't like.
What I've always wanted is to have a rim which would curve inward and still have a nice 3.5-4 inch lip. Please, no flames since this is just a preference of mine, your opinions are always welcome BTW.
I don't care if I'd have to roll the fenders or cut them and widen them or whatever. I was just concerned that those rims would mess up the suspension and be unusable on a daily basis.
The offset would be -7, have a 4" lip, and be 10.5" wide in the rear. The front I don't really care about much, I'd go with whatever the best offset would be for a 9" wide rim and 255's.
I found the perfect rims with those specs, here's a pic, be amazed.
Rims are Do-Luck DoubleSix and yes, that's a Supra LOL.
03-29-2004, 10:38 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Mar 29 2004, 11:37 PM
Go out and grab the current issue of Grass Roots Motorsports. Starting on page 167 there's a long breakdown of how offset can affect suspension geometry.
03-29-2004, 10:49 PM
#8
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It's 3 pages long with diagrams!
Just buy it already!
Effectively it's this: you will end up with reduced effective spring rate, increased bearing load, more sensitive to wheel balancing, increased tramlining (car follows grooves in pavement) and more rapid tire wear. It also puts more leverage on the rubber bushings in the suspension, causing problems with toe & I imagine more wheel hop on the 7.
Just buy it already!
Effectively it's this: you will end up with reduced effective spring rate, increased bearing load, more sensitive to wheel balancing, increased tramlining (car follows grooves in pavement) and more rapid tire wear. It also puts more leverage on the rubber bushings in the suspension, causing problems with toe & I imagine more wheel hop on the 7.
03-29-2004, 10:58 PM
#9
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Originally Posted by TYSON' date='Mar 29 2004, 11:49 PM
It's 3 pages long with diagrams!
Just buy it already!
Effectively it's this: you will end up with reduced effective spring rate, increased bearing load, more sensitive to wheel balancing, increased tramlining (car follows grooves in pavement) and more rapid tire wear. It also puts more leverage on the rubber bushings in the suspension, causing problems with toe & I imagine more wheel hop on the 7.
Just buy it already!
Effectively it's this: you will end up with reduced effective spring rate, increased bearing load, more sensitive to wheel balancing, increased tramlining (car follows grooves in pavement) and more rapid tire wear. It also puts more leverage on the rubber bushings in the suspension, causing problems with toe & I imagine more wheel hop on the 7.
03-29-2004, 11:05 PM
#10
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That's just for the rears. It monkey's with the steering if you do it in the front too.
It's not the end of the world, but if you want to do that, why not buy a poser car? Like that Supra, for example?
It's not the end of the world, but if you want to do that, why not buy a poser car? Like that Supra, for example?