so im doing this whole renesis into a 1st gen thing for real finally...



and i using a 1st gen front cover for the FC distributor. so i have to change the oil pan. the renesis is about 2 inches longer (not exactly) than other 13b's. the front and rear plates are thicker. but the center is the same. obviously the housings stayed the same. the runners are a little further starting point from the rotors to take away some of the drastic turn we see in earlier runners, but back to my topic.



so because its longer, using a gsl-se oil pan will not work like when dropping earlier 13b's into a 1st gen. i seen another guy that was doing this on here just took two 12a oil pans and extended it into one correctly sized one. but since i dont want t ruin my gsl-se oil pan, and dont wanna buy 2 12a oil pans just to cut them up. i could just buy some aluminum plate and make one.



heres the plan so far...



1/4 inch 6061 T-6 aluminum for the flange that bolts to motor. and 1/8 inch inch for the rest of it.



it will all be flat, no curves. and was thinking of just measuring and copying the gsl-se oil pan dimension of depth so i know its right. but if im going to be making one, why not try to improve on it. and what about a baffle, but not seperate. instead of cutting out the inside of the plate when making the flange. just leave it and cut the hole that are needed, like a hole for the pick up...???



comments and ideas wanted...

 

heres a quick paint drawing...



hope this helps explain what im thinking about the baffle thing.

 

yeah just build the baffle into the pan. the other thing is to make it hold more oil.

 

i think i might go thicket then 1/8", unless you make sure the oil pan is well protected. go ask the FD guys about the ground zero oil pan issues...one guy simply hit a small rock in the road and it blew up his aluminum oil pan and his motor.



either that or just make a SS one.



kevin.

 

Thats true, but a fabricated pan wont be brittle like cast aluminum. 1/8" should be plenty for an oil pan. 6061 is pretty much the standard for fabricating with aluminum, and its pretty strong as well as tough.



The 1/4" plate that will be the base(flange) for the oil pan should do a good job of controlling the flexing of the block. I see that as more of an issue than rocks from the road with the cast pan from ground zero.

 

DOH forgot their pan was cast lol.



kevin.

 

im thinking of making my own pick up too, so i dont have to design my pan around a mazda one.



how deep should it come? just about touching the bottom of the deepest point?

 

id say measure the stocker, ive got no idea what stock clearance is

 

Make the inlet with a good bell curve, and keep the pickup off the bottom of the pan at least the ID of the pickup tube. As a rule of thumb on the bell curve, the radius should be 1/2 ID. If its a 3/4" ID tube, flare it out to 1 1/2" at the end to ensure proper flow.



I dont think I ever took a pic, but on all of my high revving motors, Ive removed the screen, and welded washers onto the bottom of the pickup tube, and ground it into a nice radiused inlet. Without a radiused inlet, flow into a tube can be reduced by as much as 1/3.

 

so you didnt use a screen on the pick up at all???