I have a 60+ piece tap/die set but I'm sure it won't cover all the studs/bolts/holes that should be cleaned and rethreaded when doing a motor rebuild. Could someone list them out for me? Specifically front iron T bolt holes, T-bolts, oil pan bolt holes/bolts, and maybe the waterpump studs and any others that you guys can come up with.

 

Judge Ito once said it's ok to chace the 10mm x 1.00 tension bolt holes in the front plate. I personally have never needed to chace any threads other than a few 10mm x 1.5 exhaust stud holes in the rotor housings when I needed to replace one or two of them. Don't forget 10mm x 1.25, although chacing threads in general is not necessary unless something happened to damage them.

 

i've never chaced any threads with my rebuilds, unless u get paint in them.

 

Good luck with all the false torques readings for those who dont chase their threads.

 

torque reading? whats that?

 

False? Meh, I might as well now that I have a 10mm x 1.00 tap. They're less common than 10mm x 1.25 and 10mm x 1.5. I may even boost this engine although I'm not sure how well the '74-'75 rotor housings will hold up. Oh well, if it blows, I'll just get a T2 engine.



30 foot lbs on tension bolts, right?

 

24-27 i usually do 25

 

I use two German standards...



"tightenough"

"fuckintight"







-Ted

 

LMAO.

 

Hey, I chased several threads today. Some of the tension bolt holes were tight while others were easy to spin in by hand. Most were medium. I'm glad I decided to chase them. I also chased the front cover holes (8mm x 1.25) because some of the bolts were rusted in. Luckily none broke during teardown. I found a set to replace them with good used bolts. I also chased a couple of the engine stand mounting holes (12mm x 1.5 and 10mm x 1.25) and now the front plate is held by all four arms. It's ready to go together after I 'build' the rotors.



Mike, since this engine may be boosted, and the rotor housings are a bit old, should I do 27-28?