Rotary Engine Building, Porting & Swaps All you could ever want to know about rebuilding and porting your rotary engine! Discussions also on Water, Alcohol, Etc. Injection

What Size Taps And Dies Needed For A Rebuild?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-12-2004, 10:41 AM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
j9fd3s's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: California
Posts: 22,465
Default

it doesnt seem to hurt to go a little tighter, dont know if it does any particular good either
j9fd3s is offline  
Old 03-13-2004, 01:53 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

I ended up with 29 or so.
Jeff20B is offline  
Old 03-14-2004, 11:26 AM
  #13  
Senior Member
 
RETed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 925
Default

30lb-ft is absolute max I would recommend.

Going tighter does cause headaches - you should try it.

The engine is so tight tolerance, that cranking it over by hand is a brutal affair - don't overtighten!

Ho-man told us about the time he tried 35 lb-ft, and you could not spin it by hand.

I tried this once, and he was right!





-Ted
RETed is offline  
Old 03-14-2004, 01:43 PM
  #14  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

That's interesting that you would say that. It did feel sorta hard to crank by hand when I got done. But the rotor housings are 79.960mm in all the right places (not crushed), so they're already kinda small ('74-'75, so maybe the machining wasn't 100% dead-on back then).



I did notice that the bolts felt like they stopped turning around 30. I backed off on some to try again. Should I back off to around 25-26?
Jeff20B is offline  
Old 03-14-2004, 09:10 PM
  #15  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

Even my dad thinks I should retorque them lower. I'm just curious if this will mess up the water seals since they've already been compressed/crushed in their slots. What do you guys think?
Jeff20B is offline  
Old 03-15-2004, 12:32 AM
  #16  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

I retorqued them down to 27.5 according to a clicker type torque wrench. It seemed accurate when I compared it to my beam type, so I think it'll be fine. Rotating the engine by hand feels better now too.
Jeff20B is offline  
Old 03-15-2004, 08:19 PM
  #17  
Senior Member
 
RETed's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
Posts: 925
Default

I usually shoot for 30 max - you should be fine.

About the only thing that'll get messed is the stat-o-seals under the tension bolts.

The inner water jacket seals should be fine - they are elastic and brand new right (rebuild?), so they should expand when you relieved the pressure and reseat.





-Ted
RETed is offline  
Old 03-15-2004, 08:28 PM
  #18  
Senior Member
 
Apex13B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 1,679
Default

i dont like beam torque wrenches, i've found them it be inaccurate almost by +- 5lbs. Use a clicker.



I always chase all the threads in EVERY motor i work on, its cleans the holes and banzai is right, a piece of crud in a blind hole will give you a bad torque reading.
Apex13B is offline  
Old 03-16-2004, 02:17 PM
  #19  
Senior Member
 
Jeff20B's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,284
Default

The engine did feel better after I retorqued it. Now the flywheel and front cover are on and the end play feels ok. All that's left is the oil pan and then the waterpump etc.
Jeff20B is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
13BT_Starlet
Insert BS here
4
01-13-2008 12:15 PM
FCs Rule
2nd Generation Specific
5
10-13-2005 11:20 PM
eyecandy
3rd Generation Specific
31
06-30-2005 07:30 AM
eyecandy
2nd Generation Specific
26
06-30-2005 07:28 AM
sleeperRX7
2nd Generation Specific
7
11-14-2002 11:31 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 


Quick Reply: What Size Taps And Dies Needed For A Rebuild?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:51 AM.