j9fd3s

a couple of things



fuel: it seems to be rich, you might want to use a couple different wb's, or actually record the fuel consumption on the dyno (our its car is very roughly .80 bsfc @10:1afr stock ecu and about .72bsfc at 13.5:1 afr, same hp level)



i think you'll find that it is rich and can eliminate the fuel system as a cause



ignition: maybe verify that t1 and t2 are correct (prolly they are), maybe try a different leading coil?





or actually we need to back up a step; what makes apex seals warp? heat? pressure? why does this happen at 13psi? is it ok at 12? what is different at 13?

93FDGT3540

3 different widebands were used. All showed proper air fuels.

As far as the coils. Well Anything is possible. Usually if a coil is firing wrong its due to the Coil driver on the ECU. If the coil driver gets stuck on for instance the coil will overheat and crack/ fail. Also the car wont run right, car seems to run fine besides the melting seals and crankcase blowing oil out dipstick.

AnthonyNYC

First off sorry to hear about your troubles.



Here is what I would do going from here...



I would definitely try another PFC to make sure it is nothing with the ECU.



If you cannot get another power FC, I would then change the injectors back to the stock ones and run the car with a stock computer with race gas and higher fuel pressure than normal (just to be safe) Your A/fs should be safe.



I would go this route now since when you get the dual EGTs, if the readings are off, you will probably do some of the same things.



If that does not work, I would spend $1800 on a dealer reman and install it for testing purposes. I personally have seen Judge Ito's work and he is very highly respected in the rotary community, maybe something/somewhere has a hairline crack that will spec ok but will open up under boost etc.. (just speculating)



If the issue goes away after installing the dealer reman I am sure you can easily sell that motor for $1500 and replace the defective parts on your current motor. This way it will only cost you $300 plus whatever the installation was.



I am not a rotary specialist in any way but this is what I came up with. I just nextelled Rx794 to see his thoughts, he should be posting when he gets home. He might have some more ideas on where to go with this.



It should all work out soon, you will probably look back at this and laugh after your first 10sec pass



Anthony

Judge Ito

I have ported many engines similar to mikes engine using a similar set up like mike's car. from power FC to 1600cc's injectors to the same fuel pump and regulator. And no problems what so ever. One car was even tuned by Steve Kan with no problem. I have also seen stock engines lean out and warp apex seals. The problem here is the melting of apex seals. when an apex seal warps there is a reason behind that. I have melted apex seals with racing engines and every single time I hurt an apex seal it was due to a lean condition. I know this because I pulled fuel out purposely to try to gain more power and I ended up paying the price.(warped apex seal) I just can't figure out why mikes engine is seriously warping seals at such low boost with conservative a/f ratios on the wide band.

rx794

Has anyone checked to see if fuel wasn't leaking from anywhere outside of the motor, OR if the rail was limiting fuel to the injectors from any improper machining facing the feed side of the injector(s)? This is the only new thing I can think of other than what's been already stated in this thread as to what could be leaning out the one rotor more than the rear, remember a wideband will ONLY show you a COMBINED A/F ratio of BOTH rotors combined, NOT each chamber. I'm only stating this because you keep saying that 1 rotor is giving you more issues than the other one, and the only reason that you would get seals to warp is from them overheating(lean). Hope this helps, it's the only thing I could think of.

rx794

Just to add to my post, remember you said that the tuner tried to add fuel to one rotor more than the other one, and nothing happened, which leads me to believe that something is blocking this from happening.

ccarlisi

True, but since his combined AFR is so rich, one rotor would have to be extremely rich for the other to be running lean enough to cause damage. Given that the motor was stumbling when the afrs got down to around 10:1 I doubt it would be able to run if the split between the rotors was extreme enough to cause damage.



I put together a spread sheet to explore this further.



Here is the formula I used:

overall afr=(rotor1+rotor2)/2

overall afr * 2 = rotor1+rotor2

(overall afr * 2)-rotor 2 =rotor 1 afr

With this equation I can set the overall afr to whatever I want, enter an afr value for one of the two rotors and it will return the afr value for the other rotor. I hope someone will jump in if my reasoning is off.



Here are the numbers I got:

overall:--rotor1:-- Rotor2:

10.5--------10----------11 not lean enough to cause damage

10.5--------09----------12 doubt it would run with afr of 9

10.5--------8.5---------12.5 Even less likely to run and the afr on #1 is still not that bad.



While we're on this subject, what AFR can melt the seals?





Re the tuner adding fuel:

We noticed a slight variance between the dampness of the plugs. Steve initially overcorrected and then brought it back to a near even split. In the end the difference was not something significant enough to warrant concern under normal circumstances. Regardless, the system was always responsive to adjustments.

Judge Ito

One more thing to check is timing advance under a load. The engine is running negative timing at idle and positive timing under boost and light crusing. If by any chance the power FC is running a negative timing under a load(boost) the egt's will go up and cause the seals to warp. Next time when the car is on the dyno and making a light pull somebody needs to varify with a timing light for timing advance. If the engine does not advance timing and stays in a negative timing, this will be the reason for loss of power and warping seals. I have not been to any dyno sessions with mikes car but I'll be there for the next one and would like to try and help with this problem.

Judge Ito

The more I sit here and think about it. I'm almost sure the car is having a timing issue. Not enough timing will cause egt's to go seriously high and damage seals. Since proper fuel pressure was checked, injectors cleaned and balanced proper fuel pressure under a load. I going to say timing needs to be addressed with a timing light under a load.



High egts will melt apex seals. High egts come by easier with not enough timing then a lean air fuel mixture.

Judge Ito

Mike I remember you telling me the turbo melting due to high egt's I think we might have found the problem. I have also played around with negative timing on the race car and seen a faster apex seal damage(warping) then damage from a lean condition.