Intercooler Piping
02-15-2005, 06:55 AM
#12
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: watertown wisconsin
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found no presure drop with this set up, and yes it was alot of work but when i got no life and had no chick at the time , what else was i goin to do to eat up the time lol!. besides try and fit a 3" pipe in a car with a strut bar and power strearing , its not that easy.
02-15-2005, 07:47 AM
#14
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Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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Originally Posted by rfreeman27' date='Feb 14 2005, 05:48 PM
Makes sense.
Whatever you do, have the shop roll a lip 1/4 inch from the edge of the pipe, so the couplers wolnt blow off.
Whatever you do, have the shop roll a lip 1/4 inch from the edge of the pipe, so the couplers wolnt blow off.
I never would have thought of that, the pipe I have right now, the one made of elbows, has that 1/4" lip on it. If it only it was flush...
Originally Posted by fc3sboy1' date='Feb 14 2005, 07:44 PM
prebent pipe is good , flows well but ever think about knotch bends? take 5deg cuts on the pipe and weld it together, flow is just as well as manderal bends do and you can even get tighter bends by knotchin pipe, well its not realy a notch is more of a pipe cut welded to more pie cuts,,,,,,,,,,,,,, tooke 22 parts to make a 12 inch pipe to go around my power stearing pump on my fc but it looks so sweet. look at the picks that might help give the idea im sayin. there from my car.
I don't have a TIG so this isn't really a good option for me. I wouldn't feel right asking my friend to weld 50 little pieces together for me. Looks like you did a really great job though!
I'll post a pic of the pipe when I find it...
02-15-2005, 11:07 AM
#16
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Location: Fayetteville, Georgia
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Okay so it's not weird to have SS for intercooler piping...okay...I just thought it was probably too much weight for the task and would add stress to areas that wouldn't be used to it.
This is what I have now that I'm not happy with. The welds on the BOV are not pretty either...I had someone do this in the shop where I work. It has penetration, but I guess I won't know how good it is until I can crank the thing.
If you look real closely you can identify the gap I was talking about in my earlier post.
[attachment=28401:attachment]
[attachment=28402:attachment]
This is what I have now that I'm not happy with. The welds on the BOV are not pretty either...I had someone do this in the shop where I work. It has penetration, but I guess I won't know how good it is until I can crank the thing.
If you look real closely you can identify the gap I was talking about in my earlier post.
[attachment=28401:attachment]
[attachment=28402:attachment]
02-15-2005, 03:31 PM
#19
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 15
You can do it a bunch of different ways. It depends on how nice you want the job to turn out, and your goal.
If I were you, I would do what others recomended. Buy straight Alumn. piping and two U pipes. Cut the pipes to appropriate angles, and weld them. Grind them down to a nice smooth finish. Place a beed line or flair (I prefer welds than a flair) on the ends of the pipe at both sides. Your IC cuplings clamps will use this as a holding position.
If I were you, I would do what others recomended. Buy straight Alumn. piping and two U pipes. Cut the pipes to appropriate angles, and weld them. Grind them down to a nice smooth finish. Place a beed line or flair (I prefer welds than a flair) on the ends of the pipe at both sides. Your IC cuplings clamps will use this as a holding position.
02-16-2005, 07:05 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by Cheers!' date='Feb 15 2005, 03:02 PM
I don't see what you are bitching at, your alternator is dirty, the fender wells are dirty. The list goes on, and u have a rusty bracket where the rad is. The ugly welds are the least of your concerns.
j/k
j/k
Bastage!
Originally Posted by treceb' date='Feb 15 2005, 03:34 PM
it almost looks as if the bend is more than needed. could you cut say 1/2 to 1/2 an inch off the pipe do it lines up or unbend the pipe a bit?
I think I'm going to cut a little off the end and get someone to weld on a straight piece that's cut at an angle...if that makes sense. The end connecting to the TB elbow will be cut at an angle to compensate for the pipe being bent too much.
I didn't have it bent in the first place, the shop just had two elbows laying around that I was able to put together. Too bad my dad was too gung-ho about it and overcompensated. He seems to think it will be fine the way it is but I think that gap will create a lot of turbulence.
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