For reference, 100 = 20 psi, 107 = 23 psi, around 40 is 0psi

 

Wow that is the first time I ever seen a Wolf Screen. So you have decimal points in your ignition timing??



Excuse me if I sound stupid I just never imagined running 14.1degrees of timing.

 

well i put in 14, it rounded *laugh*

 

Haltech E11 is able to adjust to the 0.1 of a degree also if you want it to.





-Ted

 

i wonder if the engine is even accurate to .01...

 

How is load figured? I can understand psi x rpm. But what exactly is load, and how is that figured?

 

Load is the MAP pressure. 40 is his differentiation between vacuum and boost.

 

I would like to add to this thread, that if you are playing with timing you should have atleast 1 EGT gauge. As power levels, boost and compression levels rise, combustion pressure will also rise, and timing becomes a lot more critical. No engine is the same, almost everyone engine will need to be tuned differently. Most people just play it safe and do a conservative tune.

 

I posed a similar question in the ECU discussion with little response then found this thread. Good info.



I printed your map, while generic, its a good baseline to work off of. I had Steve Kahn tune my car and the timing was scary at best.



I had 19-23 BTDC at 16 PSI at 6500 RPM and it scared me.



I already killed an engine on the dyno and I am a firm believer of leaving HP in and name of longer engine life.



Thanks for the maps. I wish I could understand the Haltech maps but they make no sense to me at all.



This wolf map is similar to my Motec map and will come in handy. Time to pull out some timing before I break in the engine and see some serious boost. (400 miles to go )

 

Jim,



19-23btdc L timing is all relative. What afr were you at? in the 10s? I definitely prefer leaner afr vs more timing, Nyt's map looks pretty conservative to me, but he might be running 11.9 afr on a big single etc.. Power levels make a huge difference in what you can get away with.