Fs: '94 Vr R2
07-12-2005, 06:32 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wi nøt trei a høliday in Sweden this yër?
Posts: 1,113
I have for sale a 1994 Vintage Red R2 with 76,813 original miles, clean title, with a few modifications:
Full 3" exhaust ending with a Racing Beat dual tip catback
manual boost control using valves
Polyurethane motor mounts
steering-column mounted VDO boost/vacuum guage
C's short throw shifter
vacuum hose simplification (turbos are run sequentially)
block-off plates (no airpump)
K&N air filter in airbox
wide-foot gas and dead pedals (from forum member Sled Driver)
engine grounds have been cleaned
aluminum scuff plates with the gold RX-7 logo
Sylvania SilverStar headlamp bulbs
Idles perfectly at 750 RPMs, pulling 16 in Hg. 11-9-11 boost pattern, no creep or spikes of any kind. The valves keep the boost in check quite well, and they are located near the A/C relays in the engine bay. Exterior is stock, with the normal wear-and tear of an 11 year old car.
The seats have been recovered by the previous owner, and the material is pretty good at holding you while pushing the car. The driver's seat has 2 cigarette burns from yours truly
. Stereo is a Kenwood MP3 CD player with detachable/rotating face. The shifter boot is getting a little worn, as well as the top of the steering wheel. I've never had floor mats, and the driver's side carpet underneath the pedals is starting to get a little worn down. All interior panels are in excellent condition with the exception of a few cracks in the front defrost vents at the bottom of the windshield.
Stock wheels wrapped in 225/50-R16 Kumho Ecsta 711s with about 50% treadlife left. These tires are good for everyday driving and I haven't had any problems when the roads are wet.
Mobil 1 10w-30 along with stock NGK plugs and Mazda OEM oil filter changed every 2000 miles as well as coolant check/re-fill.
As I'm sure all of you who know anything about RX-7s, this car handles like a dream, even in stock form. This one is no exception. She pulls hard to redline, and drives like it's on rails.
Now onto the problems/ things that need to be fixed.
Six monthes ago, I was involved in a hit-and-run accident. A truck pulled into my lane, his rear bumper caught my driver's side fender right behind the bumper, and ripped the fender up and cracked the front bumper. The fender, inner fender well and front bumper skin all need to be replaced and repainted. The car still drives fine, and I have glued the underside of the bumper skin back together where it was cracked, and tried my best to pull the front of the fender back down to its original position. The hood, headlight cage/assembley and frame are all fine, just cosmetic damage.
There is a slight oil leak, and I still haven't been able to figure out where it is leaking from. I have re-sealed the oil pan twice, but I still can't tell if it's leaking from the front cover, oilpan, or an oil line near the turbos.
The clutch needs to be replaced, as the car is still running the original.
There is a rock chip in the windshield from a car on the highway riding on the gravel shoulder, various rock chips on the front bumper skin and hood, and just a handfull of door dings, all of which can be pulled out.
No clunking from the suspension, no hatch rattling. The interior pieces, as mentioned before, are just fine except for the defrost vents.
I bought the car 3 years ago with 65,000 miles on it from a doctor on the east coast. The reason I am selling is because work has slowed down, and I'm hurting in the financial department. I don't like to see it sit when it could be enjoyed by someone who has the time. All in all, this car just needs a little TLC and a good home.
I'm asking $10,000 O.B.O. I feel this is a fair price when compared to the other FDs out there for sale. Car is located in Sioux City, IA, about an hour and a half north of Omaha, NE. Available for local pickup or delivery, and I am willing to work with you on shipping.
VIN: JM1FD3336R0303481
Plenty of pictures available here under the album "James"
http://dansgarage.kicks-***.net/cpg/...s.php?album=19 , and I am in the process of getting some video of the car at idle and of a third gear pull to show the boost pattern.
Please e-mail any questions or comments to jimmyjimbojet@cableone.net
Thanks
Jimmy
Full 3" exhaust ending with a Racing Beat dual tip catback
manual boost control using valves
Polyurethane motor mounts
steering-column mounted VDO boost/vacuum guage
C's short throw shifter
vacuum hose simplification (turbos are run sequentially)
block-off plates (no airpump)
K&N air filter in airbox
wide-foot gas and dead pedals (from forum member Sled Driver)
engine grounds have been cleaned
aluminum scuff plates with the gold RX-7 logo
Sylvania SilverStar headlamp bulbs
Idles perfectly at 750 RPMs, pulling 16 in Hg. 11-9-11 boost pattern, no creep or spikes of any kind. The valves keep the boost in check quite well, and they are located near the A/C relays in the engine bay. Exterior is stock, with the normal wear-and tear of an 11 year old car.
The seats have been recovered by the previous owner, and the material is pretty good at holding you while pushing the car. The driver's seat has 2 cigarette burns from yours truly
Stock wheels wrapped in 225/50-R16 Kumho Ecsta 711s with about 50% treadlife left. These tires are good for everyday driving and I haven't had any problems when the roads are wet.
Mobil 1 10w-30 along with stock NGK plugs and Mazda OEM oil filter changed every 2000 miles as well as coolant check/re-fill.
As I'm sure all of you who know anything about RX-7s, this car handles like a dream, even in stock form. This one is no exception. She pulls hard to redline, and drives like it's on rails.
Now onto the problems/ things that need to be fixed.
Six monthes ago, I was involved in a hit-and-run accident. A truck pulled into my lane, his rear bumper caught my driver's side fender right behind the bumper, and ripped the fender up and cracked the front bumper. The fender, inner fender well and front bumper skin all need to be replaced and repainted. The car still drives fine, and I have glued the underside of the bumper skin back together where it was cracked, and tried my best to pull the front of the fender back down to its original position. The hood, headlight cage/assembley and frame are all fine, just cosmetic damage.
There is a slight oil leak, and I still haven't been able to figure out where it is leaking from. I have re-sealed the oil pan twice, but I still can't tell if it's leaking from the front cover, oilpan, or an oil line near the turbos.
The clutch needs to be replaced, as the car is still running the original.
There is a rock chip in the windshield from a car on the highway riding on the gravel shoulder, various rock chips on the front bumper skin and hood, and just a handfull of door dings, all of which can be pulled out.
No clunking from the suspension, no hatch rattling. The interior pieces, as mentioned before, are just fine except for the defrost vents.
I bought the car 3 years ago with 65,000 miles on it from a doctor on the east coast. The reason I am selling is because work has slowed down, and I'm hurting in the financial department. I don't like to see it sit when it could be enjoyed by someone who has the time. All in all, this car just needs a little TLC and a good home.
I'm asking $10,000 O.B.O. I feel this is a fair price when compared to the other FDs out there for sale. Car is located in Sioux City, IA, about an hour and a half north of Omaha, NE. Available for local pickup or delivery, and I am willing to work with you on shipping.
VIN: JM1FD3336R0303481
Plenty of pictures available here under the album "James"
http://dansgarage.kicks-***.net/cpg/...s.php?album=19 , and I am in the process of getting some video of the car at idle and of a third gear pull to show the boost pattern.
Please e-mail any questions or comments to jimmyjimbojet@cableone.net
Thanks
Jimmy
07-14-2005, 01:48 PM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Wi nøt trei a høliday in Sweden this yër?
Posts: 1,113
Just did a compression check last night, the front rotor is right at 95 psi on all 3 faces, while the rear is at 83-85 psi on all three faces. Since the compression is starting to get a little weak on the rear rotor, I'm willing to go lower on the price.
