Midnightdriver

this is just painful..finally my projed FC got started and was running. had it running for about 30 min adjusting the idle air/fuel to steady it out. It warmed up and all pressures were good. A few minor water leaks showed up around the temp sensor. Fixed the leak the following day tried to start motor for video..and it seized solid. Can not even bar it over, either direction. It looks like the front rotor has some scaring on at least 2 faces. tear down is in progress, will be intresting to see what failed will post pics when its apart.

fc3sboy1

bummer dude. i had a t2 i bought from japan wich ran great, never finished tuning it when i tore it down to port it. i screwed up the port job via busting threw the waterjaket on the frount iron. so i ordered a 13bre myself. tore that down right away. used the s5 t2 rotor housings and ported the re just a little bit. got the car runnin on the s5t2-13bre hybid got it tuning . everything was runin great, changed to a colder plug went for a drive and a quarter mile from my house i lost the rear rotor due to my wolf 3d fried a chip. there went 9 grand. rebuilt it this time went bigger on the intake port. used rx8 gears and a boat load of other go fast goodies including studding the motor and a much larger turbo then before. was tuning on the dyno and had a hiccup and cracked the rear iron around the upper dowel. lost 4 quart of oil in about 30 seconds with the race bypass regulator in it. ****** oil presure was 125 psi plus. so went back to the drawing board again. this time i used a fd rear iron, went way big on the street port. used new rx8 gears and the fd presure regulator and ditch the race reg. lost the sending unit signal to the oil presure gauge so i didnt know what the oil presure was. i was on the way to road america and my motor locked up. tore that one down , the eshaft and rear gear was a total loss. rebuilt it again. went compleatly wild with the street port on the exhaust and intake ( thanks pineapple racing ) used a new rx8 e-shaft and gears new fd pump and a **** house full of go fast goodies and have been tunin it ever since. got about 1000 miles on it and now ready for the dyno. moral of the story is safty wire your oil pick up tube bolts lol and doubble and tripple check everything and even then some things just are out of your hands. randy

Midnightdriver

man that would just Kill me...Well my friend and I have decided. Going to remove old motor, tear down, inspect. Good or not I am not putting another rotary in. Don't have the $$$$$ or the heart to have failure after failure. We are going to install a hybrid 4g63. Basically we are getting a 4g64 block putting in a 4g63 crank to de-stroke it and a 4g63 head. The 63 crank in the 64 block will give us a 2.1L motor for high revs. We have all the stuff needed just need to find the block. We need a "wide" block so the T2 tranny will bolt up to it.

Midnightdriver

Ok after the seizure I took the engine out and started taking it apart..did not take long for me to find what failed. I will say that I have no rotor damage or housing damage. I did not need to tear it down that far and as soon as I found this I turned the engine with no problems

Midnightdriver

another pic of something broken..

RONIN FC

Aw cmon man dont give up on the rotary! The thrust parts arent to bad $ wise.

Midnightdriver

It looks like I'll need the main bearing (the one pressed on the e-shaft?), stationary gear and the bearing in the pic..and another part that was left out..the thrust washer for the thrust bearing under the counter weight in front.. Anyone happen to know what stationary gear to use in a 13b-re? a 2nd gen or 3rd gen. Are those two diffrent? Ahhhh I have no luck. If this is too costly I'm not going to fix it and part this sucker out.

Midnightdriver

some more pics of damage..

RONIN FC

Um,yea... That might get a little pricey

mazdaspeed7

The end play spacer and thrust washers appear to be FD sized, so you will need to use an fd stat gear as well if you go that route. But you could also use fc 13b stuff as well, as long as you use the spacer, thrust bearings, and stat gear from an fc 13b.



The assemblies are interchangable, but parts are not between the assemblies. The fd has different bearings, very similar to the windowed "race" bearings available for the earlier stuff, and the stat gear is grooved for oil to flow behind the bearing, as well as the bearing being pinned in place. The fc 13b has none of that stuff, but its mostly for sustained high rpm use anyways.



The RE engines are almost a mix and match of fc and fd parts. It has some improvements(larger thrust bearings for instance), but the fd REW went above and beyond with whats basically the "race" oil system mods for earlier motors.