Here's a pic from an older Mazda SAE paper (#860560) that shows the temperature distribution around the rotor housing when the engine is run under high load. Looks like the coolant passages surrounding and below the plugs would be the areas to focus on with this type of mod.

[attachment=38896:attachment]

 

It does work but don't make the Grooves to deep, I belive becouse the Grooves hold Air and can Hinder the Cooling so there is a set depth you go to increase the Surface area but not create Air pockets.

 

Thanks for the explanation guys, that makes sense! I will do this mod in the future.



But here I go again with my crazy ideas...what if you were to cut angled grooves parallel to water flow, but at angles, so that the water would essentially swirl while going forward???

 

It would work better than parallel lines. I bet it would actually work great, but good luck getting them perfect.

 

Thats what I have gathered from literature on the subject. I also read its only needed under extreme racing conditions, however I'm sure it can't hurt in any other case.

 

Well I was going to do it today, but I was running out of day light, so I just stacked my engine togather. I'll do it on the next build...

 

I blew my coolant seal on the REW and it was on the side of the plugs...just thought I would say that since it is kind of in reference to the pic provided...

 

Thats what I have seen on customer's cars also.

 

Yeah, I might just have to do this mod. I took a look at the busted center iron and it appears as if the part broke right where the lower plugs would sit.



To tell you the truth I looked long and hard for a good iron but it appears as is this is a common failure for the REW. Most of the people that were parting their block(good internals) had blown a coolant seal. I wonder why it is not more commonly practiced.



Anyone have a picture of a carbide ball? I am interested to see if it is the piece that I am thinking of...

 

I'd like to see some demonstrable proof of this, as well.



B