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Ultimate N/a 13b

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Old 09-04-2005, 11:59 PM
  #21  
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does ayone know?
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Old 09-05-2005, 10:43 PM
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you need to get 2nd gen rotor housings to mate up with the t2 irons. buy new ones too! plz?
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Old 09-06-2005, 12:09 AM
  #23  
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[quote name='Hyper4mance2k' date='Aug 30 2005, 11:18 PM']You are correct and sorry about the bridgy that is what the auzzie's call it.

I have a GSL-SE block that is going to use the iorns from a 12a to get a 4 port bridgeport. As I've said before it'll be with a 48 DCO weber... I'm quite good tuning carbs so I'll figure that out my self. The issue is exactly what Ill need engine wise to acomplish everything. Gslse block w/ 12a iorns, and using a S4 t2 intake manifold. I think that'll fit. Then I plan in using s5 rotors, but I'm not sure If I'll need the whole rotating assembly. To include rotors e-shaft, bearings, and counter weights. This will be a bracket drag car. No rules. And money is not an object. I'm sorry if it is for you, get a better job... If it helps all I have to spend on the engine is $25,000 is that a good number for you?

[snapback]753812[/snapback]

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With a budget of 25,000 for an engine why **** around with tII parts and all this other bullshit? Get a 20B, baller.
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Old 09-06-2005, 02:26 PM
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Friend of mine did a pp 13b (factory housings) s4 6 port rotors little porting, 55 ida style throtle body , motec ecu with methnol injected at high rpm . It made 385 fwbph @ 8500rpm.
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Old 09-07-2005, 12:15 AM
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i don't want a 20b i want a bridgeport 13b
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Old 09-07-2005, 03:51 AM
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Well IMO if you want to spend that kind of money on a bridgeport I would get everything lightened and balanced and make the power higher up the revvs, which you're probably going to have to do to get really decent power. I like this idea though.



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Old 09-07-2005, 09:53 AM
  #27  
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Well mine is putting out 225hp on stock internals. So I would say that if you were to get everything balanced out and tune it well you could be in the same boat or better. All of the advice in this thread applies.

Stick to an 86' block, Bridge Port the engine get all new seals and get to tuning. This should not cost you more than $2500 if you are willing to do some of the work yourself.

As for the ultimate N/A... This setup will give you the best bang for the buck. Believe me.
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Old 09-07-2005, 11:12 AM
  #28  
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[quote name='Hyper4mance2k' date='Sep 2 2005, 04:19 AM']good idea i didn't think of t2 iorns. since I've allready got the mani i might as well match it to some iorns. plus those flow better than 12a housings if i'm not mistaken. less port work will be needed. So find some t2 iorns and s5 rotors and slap then on my modded current e shaft. get a modded t2 oilpump and pressure regulator. and I'm set for 250rwhp. ummm thats hot! lol and as far as hood clearence goes I'll probably cowel the hood.

[snapback]754483[/snapback]

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yeah i kinda goofed. i started with a block from an 86, cause 1 rotor/housing was fubar on my GSLSE block.
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Old 09-09-2005, 12:03 AM
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Scweed thanks for the posi responses. So i find any s4 or s5 block with some turbo housings and s5 rotors and my t2 mani with a 48 dcoe and I'm set. I'm a pretty good webertuner so I hope this should put me in the 250whp range. Thanx. If I go cheap and use the gsl-se block and old 12a housings w/ s5 rotors does anyone know what intake manifold I should use for a side draft weber? I'm thinking that the s1 13b RB manifold should work right?!?!
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