cembrent

What kind of #'s do you guy's think I can put down with a street ported s4 6port?

The exhaust ports are stock. I'm gonna find out soon enough I just thought I'd ask out

of curiousity. Be interesting to see how close people are to the actual #'s. I'll be running

a t2 ecu with the rtek 1.7, 550 and 720 inj. to start. 255lph pump, aeromotive fpr, safc2, aem lamda wideband, and fmic. There's more but I think you get the picture. Not sure yet but I'm considering mating the 6 port lim to the t2 uim so I can run the intake on the other side of the eng. It's gonna be tight for the

piping. I'll post pics when it's all done. Right now I just have the fmic mounted and the turbo manifold built.



Brent

mazdaspeed7

You wont have enough fuel to support much over 220 rwhp if that, although the turbos could support a little more.



The real question is why go through the expense of twins and use a piggy back for engine management?

j9fd3s

where does the afm go?

cembrent

On the intake? Are you kidding? Not sure why you would ask that, please elaborate.



As for 220 whp the na inj. are capable of about 200whp and there only 460's.



Brent

RONIN FC

I think J9 is inquiring how your gonna work out the afm issue bieng that you will now have 2 intakes(turbos)



Me personally, if I was gonna take on a project like that, and needed to keep the afm. I would put it right before the TB on the intrcooler pipe.

Assuming you have(or will have) an fmic.

cembrent

AFM has to be before the turbo's. I don't think they work under boost. Not sure though. Here's how it's planned. Air filter-afm-3" pipe y'd into 2 2.25" pipes into the compressors-compressors 2" outlet y'd into 2.5" piping to the fmic, out of the fmic into the plenum. I'm gonna try to use the stock waste gates but it might be more trouble than it's worth. The manifold is done now. I just need to get some stuff in the engine bay cleaned up and I'll put the eng. back in hopefully by the end of the week. Then I need to build 2 downpipes into 1 and install the 02 bungs. And on and on.



Brent

RONIN FC

Ive seen it done. Not sure how well it worked.

But I would deffinately try before all that Y pipe mess.

cembrent

It's either the y pipe mess or 2 filters and 2 intercoolers. Y pipes aren't exactly difficult to make. Not to mention there's only one throttle body.

cembrent

The real question is why go through the expense of twins and use a piggy back for engine management?

[/quote]



?

If you mean the safc2 it's just for fine tuning. The rtek should do the trick. I personally don't see

the need for every guy on the planet to run standalone. Anyhow, everything may end up changing

by the end of the summer since the 6port block will be coming out. I just need to get my car back

in action. Obviously there will be a lot of sorting to do. You guys are getting way off topic.

mazdaspeed7

Heres why you should run a standalone. Even with the Rtek you are still limited to constraints within the stock ecu. You are still limited to the stock sensor ranges, especially the AFM. But more importantly, you are running on computer technology that is over 20 years old. Do you have any idea just how many generations of computer technology have been rendered obsolete in that time period? With the limitations youre imposing yourself with using the stock ecu, what may be a safe setup with a well tuned standalone will be running on the ragged edge with a stock ecu. And dont fool yourself. The Rtek is still a piggy back. It changes the maps of the stock ecu, not the capabilities. Why go through all that mess and risk blowing an engine and killing the turbos when an apex seal goes out the exhaust and takes out the turbo exhaust wheel? And between the cost of the rtek and the s-afc, youre well over halfway to a haltech or microtech.