After tearing down the engine due to a coolant leak, we discovered this small spot on the rear of the e-shaft which obviously suffered friction and excessive heat. It's been slightly ground down already but the discoloration due to friction is still present. The shop isn't worried about it but I'd like to know WHAT would cause this as there's nothing there to rub against it. All bearings were fine except for the rotor bearing on that journal which had a very thin scrape around the outside edge due to the e-shaft. All other bearings looked brand new as did that bearing on it's main face. What do you guys think?

Here's a closer shot...possibly just dirt contamination?

hmm maybe it got nicked on assembly? or maybe a peice of something got in there?



mike

the heat discoloration ring surrounding the spot leads me to believe there was either something in there or the shaft was rubbing against something but for the life of me, I can't figure out what.

Looks nasty. I wouln't use it. Maybe insuficient lubrication? What oil do you use? Probably got nicked on assembly.

Royal Purple 20W-50. E-shaft checked out and was in spec. Oil pressure is great. Shop says it won't be a problem but I'd like to know the cause.

Where the needle bearing fucked up? If so they could of caused that when the needle bearing got smashed between the e-shaft and the spacer or washer.

You know I didn't check...I'll look tomorrow.

Thanks for the tip!

He said this was the rear of the e-shaft not the front. How does the planetary gear of the rear rotor look? (the inside of the rotor as that's right where the teeth are)



Possibly there was some contaminant in the teeth of the gear & it got squeezed out with the assy lube.



Unless the e-shaft end play could've been too tight.



If the rotor bearings were new then there could've been an imperfection in it from the pressing proceedure which imediately was wiped clean, but caused the damage seen...

I'll check that out swerve, thanks for the head's up. Yes it was the rear too meaning no needle bearing assembly. Wasn't thinking :-)



What determines e-shaft end play? Bearing size?



Rotor bearings were brand new.

There are different size flat washers to put on each side of the front needle bearing to alter e-shaft end play. The FSM should go over the measurements.



Since the rotor bearings were new I'm going to guess there was a slight mushroom at that end of the bearing from the tool that was used for pressing the bearing in.



I had a rough time with a local auto engine builder when I had my stationary gear bearings pressed in. I got the gears back with the new bearings in and the dove tail joint has gotten caught while they drove the bearing in. This made the dove tail actually crush inward where the e-shaft would normally be. Proper press tools will fill the inside of the bearing to keep this from happening, but if your dealing with an in-experienced shop they're just going to do whatever comes to mind.



Any un-noticed nick could have been the cause, & since the bearing is softer then the shaft the imperfection was wiped from the bearing.

Michel, which engine is occuring? The 13B-REW or the 13B-RE?

Unfortunately the new RE. Tore it apart after 3K miles due to coolant leak.





Wish I had taken a pic of the bearing...the "brassing" was only a very thin line on the outer edge of the bearing, maybe a thousanth in thickness. The discoloration and nick on the shaft was much larger and they didn't seem to correlate well. I thought the "brassing" was caused by one of the little sharp edges rubbing the bearing. I'll ask them how the bearings are being pushed on.

Looks to me like the e shaft has been rubbing on the front stationary gear, and has had that chunk taken out of it due to that.



Could be caused by too much endplay, or incorrect assembly. I suppose it could also be caused by the gear bearing protruding and interfering with the e shaft...



Check for clearance between e shaft and gear by assembling front plate of motor with e shaft and all the bits that go onto the front of the e shaft (thrust bearings, spacer, counter weight, oil pump drive, OMP drive, front pulley).



As long as there are no sharp or protruding edges where the damage is, there's no reason why the shaft can't be re-used.

Err, ignore approximately half of my last post.



I meant the rear stationary gear, so no point assembling the front housing...



Still think it's the shaft rubbing against either the gear or possibly the bearing if it's not seated properly.