Speedworks

Hello everyone,



I have a spare long block 13B-Rew in the basement and after 2 years of having it around I'll be starting the rebuild project. It has an oil to water leak so the teardown will have to point out wether a seal bursted or something else happened.



Goal is to prepare the engine to take a Single turbo when the budget is there. For now it will be built to take a non-seq setup (basically the next step is a single so that makes sense)



In order to do the rebuild properlyI have purcased the 4 DVD set from DIY-Re new zealand and I can advise it to everyone. The factory manual will help me with specs and torques (DVD mentions it as well)



When the mechanical parts turn out to be fine the followng will happen... and this is where I need you guys help:



1. Gasket set: looking for complete set, no apex seals or corner seals. Atkins or Rotary Aviation?

2. 2mm or 3mm apex'es?: considering the fact of few tuners with rotary experience around (Europe)

Which manufacturer to choose? RA? Atkins? Others?3mm requires machining which I need to source a local manufacturer for and I'm not sure who can do it (no rotary experience around

3. matching (solid)corner seals: Pretty sure about the solid part. Not really an Idea why, it just seems logical to me.

4. block off plates: found a complete set for about 80$ (standard item when doing the FULL non seq convertion.

5. non seq convertion according Jimlab's write-up: Need pics of the wastegate door to be cut off etc. Somebody has them? Maybe a link?

6. I have a PFC with Commander. My question here is if I can run the Base map or MOD map as preprogrammed on the non seq set-up? (max 10psi as stock, 12 for mod map??)Or does it need reprogramming because of the deletion of the 10/8/10 pattern?

7. Which injectors? stock primaries (550cc) and 1300 or 1600cc secondaries?? Or do I need 850cc primary as well? I would like to keep idle as normal as possible.

8.INstallation of the RA OMP adaptor to run a separate can of 2 stroke oil.

9. Streetporting. For now I consider to buy Judge Ito's templates. Are these an aggressive port or rather mild?

10. Other mods I consider. (pros and cons of users are very welcome)

-double throttle removal: really don't know about this

-high rpm warm up deletion: strongly considering as I always warm up before driving.



Basic mods already in place: PFC, HKS filters,HKS downpipe 3",Bonez 3" HF cat, 3" throughout exhaust.

Vmount IC setup in progress.



I know this is a lot at ones and feel free to give your advise or comments on any item above. Perhaps I forgot to add a mod which is essential to go with a mod mentionned. Please DO point out.



I HAVE searched the forums (nopistons,rx7club,rob robinette,etc) for a year and continue to do so every day. I'm sure of most things but I'm on the line of making final decisions in buying parts (apex'es etc) and would very much appreciate all the advise.



Many thanks,



Neal

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1Revvin7

Gasket set or an internall O ring kit?

I perfer OEM gaskets, mazdatrix has those

RA's O ring kit has those teflon combustion coolant o rings

I've never used 3mm apex seals, but some say they are just a tuning bandaid and are not necessary. Apex seals will blow from detonation regardless of their width.

I suggest going with 1300cc secondaries, much easier to find starter maps for this configuration. It will also making tuning the inj transition that much easier, not too mention you get a better spray pattern at lower pressure with smaller injectors.

I usually just run the oem corner seals w/o the rubber inserts.

Speedworks

1Revvin7: thanks for your reply. With gasket set I meant everyseal apart from those on the rotor.

You're right, Detonation will cause any apex seals to break regardless the thickness of it. That's why i added the remark of not having local tuners. I'm still looking out for info on how you need to tune an engine (books,etc.).

Any idea if there is a lot of difference in brands regarding the 1300cc injectors or special specs to look out for (you mention the spray pattern)?



Thanks

C. Ludwig

Amen! Though I do use the rubber inserts. I haven't found nearly as many missing from core engines as others claim so I keep using them.

Speedworks

Why would you not use solid corner seals? I assume a solid seal would make more contact and with a ported side plate one could use as much support surface as possible (hence bridge ported side plates).

Not that I'm going this farout with the port I have in mind.



Counterpart could be that a solid cornerseal would not be able to minimize the resonance that the apex is transferring as much as a seal with or without rubber insert. And resonance being a consequence of detonation and failing apex seals that could be an issue. Not sure in which measurements this will happen in real life or a functioning motor but the possibility is there.

1Revvin7

Problem lies not in the solid corner seal, but how some of the companies out their are designing them.



It takes some big bucks to answer those other questions, high pressure transducers that can be used in the combustion chamber, etc are boooooko bucks.

1Revvin7

There is quite a difference in brand performance, I don't have my notes on which ones to use and which not to off hand.

1Revvin7

I just noticed Riggy explained why some of the aftermarket corner seals sucks. He laid it out very well in that stock versus solid corner seal thread...

Speedworks

Could you give some pointers on where to buy the rotor seals? (oil control rings/springs, side seals/springs etc. other than Mazda or Mazdatrix?



The gasket kit for the engine itself is available at different places (RA,...)

But how about all rotor seals?

rfreeman27

I use stock everything in my rebuilds.



Call ray at malloy mazda, he will get you everythign you need, and cut out what you dont.



do a search for his name and his # should come up, i dont have it on me.